The Camaro Club (UK)

Is there any reason i shouldn't add this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Joe-Gibbs-Dri ... SwDNdVgSMq

It's high zinc & posphate break in oil and i'm thinking of adding about 100 - 150ml to the normal oil (doing an oil change next week). I have a fully synthetic 5w30, Mobil Super 3000. I believe that the car is a roller cam, as it's an 87 tpi 305 and apparently 87 is when GM started rolling out rollers, though not all 87's were roller, some were still flat tappet.

I ask as most oils these days have low zinc and phosphate levels so that they don't affect the CAT. Mine's CAT-less, so i'm more interested in looking after the engine Apparently the Mobile 3000 has 600ppm zinc and 500ppm phosphate, whereas it should really need (for a flat tappet) approx 1200ppm of each after break in. I've seen the more expensive Mobil1 Formula EPS (Emission Protection System) that is advertised as low phosphate, though the tech sheet says 800ppm zinc 900pm phosphate. Which is a little confusing - the emission protection version has more zinc and phosphate than the non-emission protection system

If i can add an additive then i'm happy. Real Steel suggest using a Valvoline Race oil after break in- 20w50 (a bit too high for my liking, engine spec is for 5w30) and they recommend adding about 150ml of the brake in oil at each change to keep the zddp levels up.

The bit that confused me is that break in oils like Joe Gibbs say they are only good for a few 100 miles, but then, if it's only being used as an additive, maybe that's not the case? Also not sure if it's ok to add non synthetic to synthetic?

Cheers!

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If it's roller cam you don't need any additives

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

Thanks! I will look up the block and head numbers to see if i can work out if it's definitely a roller then.

I'm now lost in a world of oils and more confused than when i started lol. Trying to figure out the best oil for the car - cap says 5w30 but the car was sold in the Canadian market where temps do go very low and the average is low. Trying to look up SAE viscosity definitions to figure out what's the best for the temp range here. But they all seem to contradict eachother. some saying that 5w30 is only good up to 15c, others saying 40+c. Some charts show 10w as being good from -15c, some charts show it from 0c. Search continues!

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How to post pics: When writing a message, scroll down and use the "attach file" option. Where possible, a photo sharing service can be used such as Flickr, Imgur etc. The image location (usually ending in .jpg) can be copy and pasted between the ][ brackets that appear when you click the 'Img' button (you can find this button at the top of the message box).

How to post youtube vids: Click on the 'youtubeHD' button at the top of the message box and in the middle of the ][ brackets that just appeared, copy and paste everything from the youtube web address that appears after the = sign i.e if this is the url: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2cNqaPSHv0 just copy "K2cNqaPSHv0").

That's why I've always gone a tiny bit thicker than spec with 10-40 ... especially if the engine has a few miles... It's not a modern engine with really fine tolerances that needs thin oil, which 5-30 is..
End of the day it won't make that much difference, as you're not gonna be stressing the engine to the extreme or doing huge mileages between changes either way.

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“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.”

That's true, it's just daily driving and it only goes over 2k rpm very occasionally when i need to maneuver in traffic to get around something. The oil pressure is really good on start up, normally over 3/4 on the scale. After being warm for a long time, sitting in traffic that it sits at half way. It's driving me nuts though about oil viscosity, just want to make sure in the cold that it's thin enough to get around all of the components. Every owner manual and website i look at shows viscosity's working at different ranges. Even the manufacturers don't put on their products or websites the temp ranges. It's just as hard finding out what the components in the oil are, e.g zinc. My eyes are going to be like this soon lol.

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How to post pics: When writing a message, scroll down and use the "attach file" option. Where possible, a photo sharing service can be used such as Flickr, Imgur etc. The image location (usually ending in .jpg) can be copy and pasted between the ][ brackets that appear when you click the 'Img' button (you can find this button at the top of the message box).

How to post youtube vids: Click on the 'youtubeHD' button at the top of the message box and in the middle of the ][ brackets that just appeared, copy and paste everything from the youtube web address that appears after the = sign i.e if this is the url: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2cNqaPSHv0 just copy "K2cNqaPSHv0").

5w40 is a good choice for the older Chevy engines.

Though my daily driven blazer is running on 5w30 with 170k miles with great oil pressure...

Basically keep the first number as low as you can. It affects cold flow. The higher number is the hot viscosity and that's the only one that affects hot oil pressure. The Chevy only needs about 10psi/1000rpm oil pressure.

_________________
My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.