The Camaro Club (UK)

Thanks Pezza...

Just been sorting the blowing exhaust with a new gasket, the old one had fallen apart and was held together with sealer...nothing suprises me on this car anymore.

Then got on to changing the carb over. Dumped the knackered old Carter now. It was leaking as well, which I hadn't noticed with the air filter fitted. Its been replaced with a 600CFM Holley now and the difference just ticking over and starting is impressive. Better phone the insurance company tomorrow and get that added to my policy.

Didnt get many pics as its dark outside now, only finished 15mins ago.

Replaced the factory cable bracket with one that let me connect up the kickdown linkage. Although I need to replace the accelerator cable as its not letting me get any where near full throttle either. Plus its been bodged with, yes you guessed it, chocolate block!

On a slightly related note, anyone know what this little switch is for? Its on the drivers side of the dizzy right at the back of the inlet manifold. Looks like some sort of temperature switch, but I am not sure.

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

Yes! It's the oil pressure/temp switch/sensor

Have a read here for all the info i put together on mine:

http://www.classiccamaroclubuk.com/phpB ... f=9&t=1589
Cheers,
Ray

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How to post pics: When writing a message, scroll down and use the "attach file" option. Where possible, a photo sharing service can be used such as Flickr, Imgur etc. The image location (usually ending in .jpg) can be copy and pasted between the ][ brackets that appear when you click the 'Img' button (you can find this button at the top of the message box).

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Thanks Ray. I'll have a look later and see if it works. My oil light was disconnected when I bought the car, and still is as I wasn't sure where to connect it up.

I thought the oil pressure sender was the one down on the bottom of the block just forward of the starter? If not, what's that one?

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

Ah right, so the passenger side should be the water temp sender.

Driver side on a big block, or by distributor cap on small block should be oil.

I've swapped over both on my SB and no complaints.

Easiest way is to unscrew it and see what comes out. the drivers side on the block should have coolant come up. be ready with something to catch the coolant.

Cheers!

_________________
How to post pics: When writing a message, scroll down and use the "attach file" option. Where possible, a photo sharing service can be used such as Flickr, Imgur etc. The image location (usually ending in .jpg) can be copy and pasted between the ][ brackets that appear when you click the 'Img' button (you can find this button at the top of the message box).

How to post youtube vids: Click on the 'youtubeHD' button at the top of the message box and in the middle of the ][ brackets that just appeared, copy and paste everything from the youtube web address that appears after the = sign i.e if this is the url: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2cNqaPSHv0 just copy "K2cNqaPSHv0").

Hmm, confusing.

The water temp sender is on the drivers side cylinder head between cyls 1 and 3.

The oil pressure sender is on the back of the block next to the dizzy.

The one I am talking about is just above the sump to block joint, infront of the starter motor. It only has a single contact on it and I had assumed it to be the oil pressure switch. It doesnt seem to work though as I checked it with a meter with the engine running and stopped and its open circuit all the time, though that could just be the switch is knackered.

However I think it might be an oil pressure switch for the EFI system as my engine is much later, 1987 according to the casting number and they apparently had another switch as a safety system.

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

Finished off the carb install tonight, fitted a new Edelbrock filter which fits under the bonnet a bit better too.

Seems to start and idle much better now. First run up the road it was misfiring like a goodun under part throttle acceleration and low speed. Pulled the vac secondary diaphragm out and reseated it and it seems better now. Time will tell. The carb allegedly came from a 350. Runs a lot better anyway even if its still a little out. Will see how it goes longer term.

This is the old one



Really bodged as everything else is. M8 studs rammed into 5/16UNC threads, leaking vacuum connections and dripping fuel everywhere. No kickdown cable attached either.

And this is what I have ended up with, no manual choke cable fitted, but starts well anyway.




Just need to reconnect the vac advance on the dizzy when I am happy its running OK as it is at the moment.

And someone on another forum asked for a vid, so
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2C28riMVePE

There you go

Tomorrow I am hoping to get the new alternator fitted, and then this weekend I will be doing the floor and oil pan.

_________________
My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

Did the sump and gasket this afternoon. Bit of a pain to do, but more fiddly than anything. I don't like laying under cars at the best of times, though rust in your eyes beats welding spatter in the ear any day.... As my engine is an 87 its the one with the single piece rubber gasket.

Run it up to temp but not driven it yet so will have to see if its fixed the multitude of oil leaks I had.

Next job is the transmission oil pan and gearbox mount, access is a bit easier though, so I am hoping that will be a bit easier and less swearing.

_________________
My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

Jobs done for today...

Transmission oil pan gasket - replaced the old cork one with a proper Felpro one
Transmission mount - old one completely disintegrated. Replaced with a new pattern part.
Alternator changed for a new unit - bearings shot in other one and it was all siezed together making stripping it nearly impossible.
Straightened out crank pulley - someone had damaged the rear groove meaning the power steering pump was being run on the wrong groove. Now fixed well enough for it to run properly. Fitted a new belt and now have a nice quiet power steering drive. No more squeaky belts

Front brake disc - failed....the one that was supplied with the car isn't right and takes a different sized outer bearing. So I need to order a new front disc/hub. Might do a brake upgrade while I am at it. May as well I suppose.

Good news is just been for a quick drive and the sump and transmission oil pan dont seem to be leaking any more. There is just another leak on the speedo cable as someone has damaged the thread so you can't do it up properly. Will have to just replace the cable...

_________________
My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

Wow, you're ripping through the jobs with success then..

darned good work mister..

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“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.”

Yep getting there

Still have a minor oil leak, but not enough to worry about now. Just a little at the front of the sump where it meets the timing cover. Could always stick some sealer in if i could be bothered, but the engine will be getting swapped soon anyway, so no major problem.

Also still have an intermittent whistling noise, loudest on overrun, quiet at cruise and stops under acceleration. Its not there all the time, and have yet to have it happen when idling, so finding it hard to pinpoint. I think it might be a vac leak somewhere so I have replaced the vac line down to the modulator on the transmission. It hadn't happened for ages, then started again today on and off. Loud enough to be annoying and embarrassing.

All the body seals/weather strips should arrive this week so I will be getting some of them fitted during the week. Though I will be holding off on the door mounted ones as I want to take the doors off and sort the bottom edges out properly as they have been badly repaired in the past. And I have to take them off to do the hinges anyway...

Also ordered an aluminium radiator and transmission cooler as my rad is leaking in more than one place and like a lot of things has been bodged to fit anyway. But that wont be here for another week or so.

So still loads to do...

Made a start on getting the parts together for my 355 build as well. 1968/69 4 bolt main block. Bored +.030". Just need to finsh swapping the core plugs, trimming up all the sharp edges and a few other bits. Also would like to get the block decked to 9.000" if I can find a machine shop to do it.



Also did a little work on the crank, nothing more than removing all the sharp edges as it was almost impossible to handle it without gloves. Its a nearly new crank from a crate Goodwrench engine that had only covered 1000miles when it was stripped. Its only a cast crank sadly, but I am not looking for more than 400bhp and will be keeping the rpm's down most of the time so hopefully it will be strong enough. I also gave the journals a quick polish up.




And these are the pistons, TRW L2304F. They are secondhand but unused, but I dont have much info about them. I think they are just over 10.5:1 with 64cc heads. The plan is to fit aluminium heads anyway so will see what I can find. Need to take a few high spots off from the crowns as well. Might give them a shine up as well.



So I am currently making a list of stuff to get. I was orginally planning on running a roller cam, but the price of all the hardware is putting me off big time. I dont want to end up running a high stall converter either as its a street car at the end of the day. So thinking about running a Lunati Voodoo 268/276 cam.

Need to get a full set of bearings and rings and a few other bits too... Hoping to have the engine built up before the end of the year and get it swapped over.

_________________
My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.