The Camaro Club (UK)

Thanks stu, just swap them? sounds a bit too simple to me i was hoping to find an offending worn/bent part and replace it, but swap them i will, that would be great if it cures the problem thanks again mate.

Sorry, just re-read my post.. I meant DON"T swap them.. It's far more complex than that as the geometry is set by those shims..
I'd check all steering components are good order - idler arm, centre link, rod ends and inners etc.. and then suspension arm bushes, after that, get the geometry set up using the shims to get as much castor as possible (usually only 1 or 2 degree on standard upper arms) and camber to 1/2 degree.. If there's still problems then there's other issues like steering box/rag joint/column etc..

_________________
“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.”

Obviously, as he's said that the suspensions been worked on, it's probably not set correctly. You need to set all of the suspension up with the engine in the car & it sitting at ride height. Any variation from how it sits can alter the set up. If the car doesn't self centre, the caster is wrong. Play in the other parts wouldn't affect it dramatically. hth

cheers...Nige

_________________
Too much power...not enough hands!!

Ok you guys thanks, ive had a quick wizz round the net checking out this castor thing,yep it self centers the wheels allright but checking it??? stroll on turn the wheel 20deg each way and multiply the difference by 1.5 15 deg x by 2 and 10 deg x by 3, turn tables? white paint and scrub?? I only want to go straight not up to the moon! Must admit i was getting camber and castor mixed up, can anyone shed any light as to how i adjust the castor? Forgive me iam fumbling around in the dark here. Motor and box are ready to be pulled, have a pic of a very sorry looking camaro covered in dust but dont know how to put it on here. cheers.

Caster and camber are both adjusted by the shims. unfortunately they both affect each other.
If you increase the shims in the rear of the cross-shaft you'll pull the the top of the spindle rearwards towards to back of the car, so increasing negative castor (which is what you want), trouble is you've added camber as this also pulls the spindle towards the centre of the car, if it's too much camber you can reduce the amount of shims, and add shims also in the front of the cross-shaft (but this then reduces the castor you've just added too)
So as you see it's a bit of a juggle to get it right.
In the US lots of people are moving to aftermarket upper arms with more castor built in to the design, or adjustables, like I have, to get it more extreme geometry for race tracks.

_________________
“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.”

Ok stu thanks a lot mate basicly then when i get the motor back in have a play with the shims. I still need to take a look at the rest of the set up though somethings got to be amiss somewhere. Thanks for your help, is there any advice youd give to someone about to fit a stroker crank?

The block will need machining to clear usually, but I don't know much more than that... 6" rods, rather than 5.7" work better too apparently..

_________________
“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.”

Ok mate thanks.

Remember, if you get 6" rods you gotta get pistons to match

Stu, what sort of camber did you manage to get with yours??

Cheers...Nige

_________________
Too much power...not enough hands!!

Heres' a pic of the camber on mine, all with stock suspension parts, none of that DSE stuff here



cheers...Nige

_________________
Too much power...not enough hands!!