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PostPosted:Wed Apr 27, 2016 2:06 pm 
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Big Block
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Joined:Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:40 pm
Posts:3245
Car Details:'79 Camaro, 350 V8
Location:South Bucks
Well, unfortunately i have been requested to sell my daily :thumbdown:

Runs, drives, taxed (non transferable due to new laws) and has MOT.

As you know, this is my only car (that's taxed and driveable) and has been used daily for the last 2 years, through winter and summer, 5-6 days a week. It's been very reliable - only had 3 no starts: 1st time was dead alternator, so replaced it and got a new battery. 2nd and 3rd time were no spark - changed the spark plugs, leads, ignition module and coil (all AC Delco OEM classed). In perspective my neighbor has had the AA out more times for their new-ish Audi and Merc, so it's done pretty well.

Reason for sale is circumstantial - I need a car that for lack of a better term is more practical i.e. need to pick friends up next month from the airport, not enough room in the car and without having access to another car, means renting one. Being a 29 year old car, it can need more attention than a 3 year old car - whilst i've been able to do the normal servicing and change things out as needed, sometimes a weekend isn't enough to get a job done, especially if you find you need a different part - i then have no way of getting to work on Monday.

It wouldn't be an issue if i had this as a second car, and had a car that i could use it in tandem with, to do things like airport runs, carry more people etc. I would easily use both cars 50/50. It would be less stressful changing things out as i wouldn't have a deadline of Sunday night. The issue is when i get a more practical car, i will have 2 seconds cars... the Camaro (as you all know). And that's the issue - i've been told i can only have 1 second car. I can't sell the Camaro, as it's not done yet and i've put too many years into it to sell it without having used it. So that's where the Trans Am comes into the for sale section. I really don't want to sell it and was hoping to keep it as i've spent extra on good quality replacement parts as i wanted it to last me for a good while.

I will upload some pics later today, and keep the below updated as i remember more stuff. I would like the car to go someone who will look after it and treat it well, and not turn it into a dragster, pro tourer and so on. It's a very original car and should be kept that way.

Mileage: ~85,000 but as a Canadian car it's in KM, which is about 109k km from memory (the plastic speedo gear in the gauge itself has worn down and it stopped counting the miles at 70k, i do about 5k per year so it's at about 80k but saying 85k to be sure. I have a full replacement instrument panel that will come with the car if you want it to work. You can swap the whole thing or just the speedo).

General info:
Numbers matching car (original engine, gearbox, rear axle). Manual 5 speed! Quite rare. Excellent gearing - quick acceleration but also cruises on the motorway at about 1,700 rpm. 0-60 from new was 7 seconds from what i read. Probably at about 7.5 - 8 now. It's certainly quick when you need it to be.
305 V8 Fuel Injection (TPI). I get good mpg's with it being fuel injection - calculated at about 25-28. I spend £25-£30 per week on fuel and drive it 5-6 days per week. Obviously, the more you rev it, the lower the mpg but i think that's pretty decent for a V8. People at the petrol station always say "i bet that drinks fuel" - not really if you're behaved. Starts up at the turn of the key every day, cold or hot. Oil pressure is good. Has a Toad fitted immobiliser.

Owners: From what i've been told, belonged to a Canadian guy who owned it from new, moved over to the UK and then it was sold about 4 years ago to Sportsroof on here. He didn't use it but sold it to his friend, who had it for about 1 year, then i bought it from him.

The car is very original:
Still have the owners manual that came with it. Has factory undercoat so the floors have never been welded and seems solid throughout.
Still has the original spare wheel and CO2 canister.
Has the original wheels, centre caps, locking wheel nuts, plastic wheel nut covers and locking wheel nut tool.
Original seats.
Original carpet.
Original floormats.
Original plastics.
Original T Tops, with T Top bag.
Dash is in amazing condition, no cracks etc looks pretty much brand new.
All gauges work (except for the speedo mileage counter, but the speedo works)
Factory undercoated.
Door seals etc. are in good condition.
Electric windows (both work well).
Power Steering.
All interior lights work (changed to LED)
Heater / Fan works.
Has front fog lights, which work (though i noticed a small stone chip in the passenger side one, works ok but would want to put some clear silicone on that spot (or just change the unit)).
Has rear fog light.
Horn works.
Has cruise control (doesn't work, not sure, haven't looked into it).
Rear hatch has an electric motor that closes it (stops people slamming the glass down) and this still works like it did from the factory.
No sagging headliner.

Has a Stainless Steel 2.5" exhaust from the headers all the way to the back. Not too loud, sounds quite meaty and when you rev it, it sounds quite aggressive. Has a 2.5" electric exhaust cut out. Only issue with this is the valve got stuck, so it has a blanking plate over it. The electric motor is good, all the wiring is there, just needs a new valve which is about $35 last time i checked.

All of the ignition system was changed out after having spark issues, which has now been rectified. Changed out the Ignition Control Module, Coil, spark plugs and spark plug wires (about 3 weeks ago). All AC Delco parts used.

Has upgraded headlights, so they shine nice and bright.

Car is non-AC so no time and money needed to do the common AC delete thing.
Have kept all of the receipts.

Passed the MOT twice with no issues, only advisory was on the brake rotor as they were rusty from little to no use. Loads of meat on the pads still.

Things i've done:
Spent a lot of money! (£1.5 - 2k)
Changed out the inner and outer tie rods, tie rod sleeve, centre link and idler arm. All Moog parts, no cheap parts used on any of the car.
Flushed the cooling system (coolant was just as clean coming out as the coolant that went in. Changed the thermostat at the same time (factory 195 spec), changed the upper and lower radiator hoses and belts (all AC Delco). Cooling system works great, i've been sat in traffic sometime for half an hour and it maintains temp (factory electric fan comes on). Works great at normal driving speeds.
AC Delco battery installed 1.5 years ago
Can't remember the name of the brand but alternator was replaced 1.5 years ago
Changed the air filter (Wix filter).
Cleaned the Mass Airflow Sensor with MAF cleaner while changing out the air filter.
New PCV valve.
Cleaned the throttle body butterfly valves with carb cleaner so it's nice and clean.
Smog stuff removed (easier to work on the engine bay and a bit of weight reduction).
New tyres all around, 2 years ago, lots of tread left, they are Uniroyal rain experts - 'A' rated traction in the wet. Quite a comparison to the white lettered tyres that are normally on yanks. Not done a burnout with this car, which you can tell from the tread still left.
Heater Matrix replaced 2 years ago (not leaking, just clogged, so had no heat.
Fuel filter changed (Wix filter).
2x Oil changes done, new Wix filter used each time and Mobil 1 oil used.
Replaced all hood and trunk gas struts
Changed the 02 sensor
Added reverse lights - all lights meet MOT requirements.

Things i planned on doing:

Manual transmission fluid change - i have the correct oil but haven't gotten around to changing it (there's a Camaro in the way. Fluid comes with the car). It shifts well but in the winter on the days where it dropped below freezing, it was a bit tough to shift into 2nd until it had warmed up, so decided it would be worth needing a change. It runs happily now that it's warm, but don't know when the fluid was changed so worth doing it at some point this year.

Rear diff fluid change. There's a slight leak on the rear passenger side, which is most likely down to an axle shaft seal. Haven't gotten around to ordering the seal, they are only about $2 on Rockauto, but requires the diff cover to be taken off and the shaft removed - something i don't want to do and rush when i have to have it working for Monday morning). There's no noticable leak - only when you remove the brake drum, you can see there's a film on the brake shoe and it doesn't grip as well as the other side. It's been like this since i got it so it's not a show stopper but something that i would want to have done before the end of the year.

Intake manifold gasket. I bought one a few weeks ago (Felpro) and i may install it once i have a daily if the car hasn't sold yet. I saw a bit of a coolant leak on the front of the engine where the intake meets it, think this will also help get to a completely smooth idle. Coolant leak is very minor, can go weeks without needing a small top up. Same with oil, can go a month easily without needing a top up. If it's not installed, then the gasket is yours to swap out at your own leisure. Again, not a show stopper as i'm still driving it it's not an issue, just something that would need changing this year.

Valve stem seals. I have new seals from FelPro, (and valve cover gaskets from FelPro). As above, has been like this since i got it so it's not a showstopper but something on the to do list. As above will install it if it doesn't sell soon, or you can have it with the car and do it at your own leisure.

Control arm balljoints - I haven't got replacements but it's something i planned on doing at some point. After changing the tie rods, i guessed that these would need replacing soon too. Again, drive it everyday as it is, so not a showstopper.

Rear defogger - it's there, it works, but not for long. I changed out the relay and didn't help, so narrowed it down to the fuse. The fuse is one of the larger timed fuses, something along those lines, so think that changing that should do the trick. Haven't looked into it yet.

Bodywork:
It's in between pretty decent and good, especially for its age. Original paint, hasn't been repainted. Colour: Flame Red (metallic maroon). The arch lips (where stones get flung up) have had paint flake off in some areas and some rust has developed. I've used bilt hamber hydrate 80 which reacts with rust and puts it on hold. I was planning on stripping off the rust areas and doing a rough paint blend, then ultimately respraying it in a year or 2.

Interior still has original radio that works (the displays comes and goes but the sound stays). I installed a jack cable that can be used as an aux input i.e. if you want to listen to an mp3 player or plug in your phone, just plug the jack lead in. Installed into the back of the stereo so nothing has been cut up to make way for it. The only issue here is the right hand side of the cables crackles if in certain positions, so to fix it, just need to buy a replacement 3.5mm jack plug from Maplin and cut and solder. Would suggest a right angled one, as i think the cable has been twisted too many times causing it break.

Think i've covered most things, let me know if i'm missing any details. I'd thought i'd lay out everything about the car and the issues i know about up front, rather than you discovering them later on. At least you know what's going on with something rather than trying to figure it out. If you've kept up with my posts on this forum you know everything i've been through as i've posted any issues that have come up. You can drive the car as is and keep using it, as that was my plan! Just keep an eye on the things i mentioned in the to do list, either some will be sorted when you get the car, or you can do them in your own time. They don't need doing straight away, but at some point this year i'm sure would be good. Also depends how often you will use it. Probably not everyday like me. I've kept all of the parts i changed i.e. belts and hoses, smog etc. (they weren't leaking or cracked, but changed for good measure) so you can have the original bits if you want.

This is one of the few 3rd gens out there that gets used daily so you know the seals haven't dry rotted, the oils broken down, the internals started to surface rust etc.

Insurance is about £190 per year, but that's with it being used daily, as a main car and 5,000 mile limit. As second car and lower mileage, insurance would be more towards £140 or even less (depending on age, location etc.). Road tax is fixed at £230 per year.

It does get looks and thumbs up. Just the other day in traffic a couple 7 year old looking kids were walking past while i was sat in traffic and i could hear him shout to his friend "that's a trans am, THAT'S A TRANS AM!". I was impressed at his age he knew what it was, so he got a couple of revs which put a smile on his face. If you're into the magazine feature thing too, in last years American Car (think that's the one, have a copy somewhere) it's in the pic of the beginning of the article of Speedfest 2015.

Based on how much i've spent on it, the originality of it, the condition of it, how well it's been looked after and that it's an original Trans AM (not a clone) and that it's a manual, with fuel injection (to help on the mpg's) i'm asking £6k obo. I've seen some advertised for £6-8k but i don't think they actually sold for that much. If you're interested, send me a PM to arrange viewing, i'm located around Junction 7 of the M4 - Windsor / Maidenhead area (South Buckinghamshire).

Pics (vid at bottom) :

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2nd Price Drop 1987 Trans AM 305 TPI V8 Manual T Tops

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PostPosted:Wed Apr 27, 2016 5:27 pm 
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Big Block
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Joined:Sun Jan 13, 2013 7:00 am
Posts:1158
Car Details:1986 Camaro, bought into Spain by me in 1993.
305 replaced by a 355, 750 Demon carb, RPM AirGap intake, Brodix heads, Hedman Hedders, 3" Flowmaster exhaust.
Wheels are Summit aluminium 5 spokes, tyres are 245 rear 225 front BF Goodrich.
B/M transmission, battery relocated to the rear, GoodMark 4" cowl steel hood.
Location:Spain East Coast
Sounds like a bloody great deal for some one.
A shame you have to let it go.


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PostPosted:Wed Apr 27, 2016 7:45 pm 
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Big Block
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Joined:Mon Feb 15, 2016 4:30 pm
Posts:537
Car Details:1970 Chevrolet Camaro RS/SS 454
It sucks when anyone is forced to selling a car they don't really want to! Good luck with the sale though


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PostPosted:Thu Apr 28, 2016 9:02 am 
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Big Block
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Joined:Fri Mar 19, 2010 1:35 am
Posts:2566
Car Details:79' camaro road & track day toy. 383 stroker, 5 speed TKO trans, lots of suspension stuff, 13" Vette brakes, 18" wheels.
Location:Luton
Sad times. .. even better reason to get the 2nd gen done though.

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PostPosted:Thu Apr 28, 2016 9:17 am 
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Big Block
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Joined:Sun Jan 13, 2013 7:00 am
Posts:1158
Car Details:1986 Camaro, bought into Spain by me in 1993.
305 replaced by a 355, 750 Demon carb, RPM AirGap intake, Brodix heads, Hedman Hedders, 3" Flowmaster exhaust.
Wheels are Summit aluminium 5 spokes, tyres are 245 rear 225 front BF Goodrich.
B/M transmission, battery relocated to the rear, GoodMark 4" cowl steel hood.
Location:Spain East Coast
But you're not better off with the 2nd gen, same lack of space.


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PostPosted:Thu Apr 28, 2016 11:10 am 
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Big Block
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Joined:Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:40 pm
Posts:3245
Car Details:'79 Camaro, 350 V8
Location:South Bucks
Thanks for the condolences!

They're kept on the same property which is the problem, so once the 2nd gen is done, it will be staying in the same place, but will be mobile :) I was hoping to be living elsewhere by now which means i would have made sure there was enough space, but house prices have gone up so much, i can't afford to move into a place that would have enough parking / garage space.

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PostPosted:Thu Apr 28, 2016 9:06 pm 
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Big Block

Joined:Thu Jul 21, 2011 2:16 pm
Posts:815
Car Details:1980 2nd Gen, 6.0 iron block LS, 4.11 12 bolt axle, Brute Strength Posi, Lowered 2", sub frame connectors, G-braces, Carbon hood and front bumper cover
Location:Norfolk
Good luck with the sale Ray. I've hankered after a 3rd gen for a while but I'm not allowed any more toys :wtf:

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.


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PostPosted:Sat Apr 30, 2016 12:10 pm 
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Big Block
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Joined:Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:40 pm
Posts:3245
Car Details:'79 Camaro, 350 V8
Location:South Bucks
Thanks - yes, it seems like there's a limit to toys!

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How to post pics: When writing a message, scroll down and use the "attach file" option. Where possible, a photo sharing service can be used such as Flickr, Imgur etc. The image location (usually ending in .jpg) can be copy and pasted between the ][ brackets that appear when you click the 'Img' button (you can find this button at the top of the message box).

How to post youtube vids: Click on the 'youtubeHD' button at the top of the message box and in the middle of the ][ brackets that just appeared, copy and paste everything from the youtube web address that appears after the = sign i.e if this is the url: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2cNqaPSHv0 just copy "K2cNqaPSHv0").


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PostPosted:Tue May 31, 2016 8:44 pm 
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Big Block
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Joined:Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:40 pm
Posts:3245
Car Details:'79 Camaro, 350 V8
Location:South Bucks
Price drop... £5,900

Also, MOT just expired but as i'm signed off with a slipped disc, i can't drive so can't get the MOT sorted until end of the month. Price drop partly reflects the cost of an MOT. It can be taken away on a flatbed of course and i'm happy to negotiate on the price to help offset the cost of hiring a trailer / man with a pickup van.

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How to post pics: When writing a message, scroll down and use the "attach file" option. Where possible, a photo sharing service can be used such as Flickr, Imgur etc. The image location (usually ending in .jpg) can be copy and pasted between the ][ brackets that appear when you click the 'Img' button (you can find this button at the top of the message box).

How to post youtube vids: Click on the 'youtubeHD' button at the top of the message box and in the middle of the ][ brackets that just appeared, copy and paste everything from the youtube web address that appears after the = sign i.e if this is the url: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2cNqaPSHv0 just copy "K2cNqaPSHv0").


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PostPosted:Thu Jun 16, 2016 8:49 pm 
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Big Block
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Joined:Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:40 pm
Posts:3245
Car Details:'79 Camaro, 350 V8
Location:South Bucks
2nd Price drop - £5,500 ONO

Planning on MOT'ing next week as i'm recovering well enough to sit for a short while. Of course, if you wanted it sooner, could negotiate the price to consider the cost of trailering it. Or, you could book it into an MOT place near you and then drive it directly to the place of MOT.

Will place onto ebay as a classified soon if no buyers via here. :thumbup:

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How to post pics: When writing a message, scroll down and use the "attach file" option. Where possible, a photo sharing service can be used such as Flickr, Imgur etc. The image location (usually ending in .jpg) can be copy and pasted between the ][ brackets that appear when you click the 'Img' button (you can find this button at the top of the message box).

How to post youtube vids: Click on the 'youtubeHD' button at the top of the message box and in the middle of the ][ brackets that just appeared, copy and paste everything from the youtube web address that appears after the = sign i.e if this is the url: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2cNqaPSHv0 just copy "K2cNqaPSHv0").


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