The Camaro Club (UK)

Couple of months at least I expect. Still have a lot to do

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

That pulley is fabulous.... couldn't imagine machining anything that accurately

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“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.”

Thanks Stu. It was simple job compared to a few of the others. Just a little patience required

I've spent all day wiring again, and the engine is completely wired up. Hopefully I'll be able to check the function of everything tomorrow if I can get some power on the loom. Still have quite a lot more to do yet, but shouldn't be too long before it's ready to be fired up...

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

The car is at that stage where you can't really see where you've been working. Lots of silly little jobs that all take ages to sort.

Yesterday I finished cutting a hole in the floor to clear the oil cooler lines on the 4L80E - downside of such a large transmission. I hammered out a domed aluminium cover plate for it and put a squirt of non-setting sealer round it before screwing it to the floor. Now if I ever need to get at the fittings I can do it without dropping the transmission out...!



Next I fitted new body seals for the doors to replace the leaky ones. I did replace them with new when I rebuilt the car the first time, but they didn't last very long. I bought a different make this time and they seem much better. With the rain that's forecast for the rest of the weekend I expect I will find out if the new seals have fixed the problem, or not.

After that I finished off all of the dash wiring with a couple of minor exceptions and then refitted the carpet, dash, instruments etc.



Tested the electricals that I can and everything seems to work so far.

Today I got quite a lot done, but nothing much to see - which is always annoying...

Wired the rear lights, fuel pump, dome light and starter solenoid (which I've moved to the back of the car with the battery - I never liked having a 50mm^2 hot cable running front to back with no fuse. And I also dropped in a big 16mm fused main battery feed for the rest of the car, that runs up to a stud on the firewall where everything takes it's power from. Overkill, but if I ever upgrade things like fuel pumps, or ever fit a stereo or something then I won't have to touch that again...

Spent a good hour fitting the shifter cable - and swearing - trying to get it adjusted right was a pain. Not sure if the throws on the 4L80E shifter are slightly different to other transmissions or not....

Made the throttle cable up and fitted that - do need to modify the stop on the throttle body so that I can get full throttle - not unusual on those Chinese throttle bodies...

Spent 2 hours messing around with the ECU and TCU trying to get them talking to eachother via CAN - got there eventually! Loading new firmware on the TCU seemed to fix the problem - so it was either corrupt or there was a bug in the old code.

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

The "door" is a good idea but how much must you dismantle inside the car to get to it,
or are you putting a "door" in the carpet too ?

I see you have the itty bitty Grant steering wheel too, on the road here mine is illegal, that is not written up in the car´s paperwork.
I have the Grant anti-theft system so´s I can change to my bigger steering wheel for the MOT.

The steering wheel vinyl started to crack so it´s now covered in bull hide, so it´s a little thicker but very comfortable.

The carpet will fold back quite easily to that point, takes about 10 mins My Grant wheel is leather... and legal in the UK.

Today I spent the morning sorting the fuel system out - replacing all of the rubber fuel hose as it had succumbed to our wonderful fuel with ethanol in... I've replaced it with the proper R9 rated hose this time, so hopefully it will be OK now. After that I dropped the fuel tank out because the fuel sender has always been temperamental. Found that it was actually a stuck float. Freed it off and reassembled the tank before rubbing it down and giving it a fresh coat of paint as it had some over spray on it from when the car was sprayed.

Then I got rained off, so had to call it a day.

Oh and I found out that my door seals still leak, despite replacing them with new. They seem to leak where the door and body seals meet at the back of the door. I give up on that particular problem....

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

That's an impressive amount of work you've got done!!!

Not that i could ever give you any advice as you've forgotten more things than i will ever learn, but earlier this weekend i sprayed silicon spray onto all of the door rubbers on the 3rd gen. I noticed that they close a bit easier now, because without a door frame, the glass has to push against and then up on the rubber. By making it easier to move upwards, it should mean the glass slides upwards as opposed to getting caught on the rubber and possibly causing slight deformations. I noticed that in the user manual it said to put silicone onto the t top seals as the glass needs to slide over to seat them properly to create a good seal. So i took that and applied it to the doors (and trunk seal).

Hope this may help your case? Have you got any close up pics of where the leak could be?

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Dried up this evening just long enough to refit the gas tank

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

That exhaust looks awfully low...

It's just hanging there, nothing connected to the other end lol

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.