The Camaro Club (UK)

Hi guys, so me and my Dad will be doing a top end strip and rebuild of my Z28's engine and whilst doing this I decided to go ahead and upgrade some parts, new intake, cam, springs and timing chain....now I had decided on the Edlebrock performer package however I am reading some mixed reviews on the performer cam, I should stress I am not looking for dragster power otherwise I would chuck the 305 and get a 350! However the car is my daily and im just looking for a bit more get up and go.

So, first off I understand that the LG4 has a pretty small cam in the world of V8s and I was lead to believe the performer cam would be a good mild street cam that would offer a bit more power that what it has now, anyone had experience with this cam or maybe another that would be along the lines of what I am looking for?

Second, priming the oil pump before start up after installing a new cam, apparently this is highly recommended even after cranking the engine by hand due to cam/flat lifters and this can be done with what looks like a frankenstien dizzy(?) and drill to prime the pump for 20mins? Anyone happen to have one of these they no longer need (the primer tool that is, i have a drill!)

Some of this is new even to my Dad who has had a lot of experience with rover V8s, cam swaps/rebuilds but not so much with Chevys, so any advice is appreciated!

(I should also add i am currently running a Holley sec vac carb and hedman longtube headers)

Thanks
Si

It's important to remember that a stock camshaft is an uneasy compromise between performance, economy and emissions, but for an everyday driver I would suggest you concentrate on a cam that gives lots of low end torque rather than high RPM. Possibly the Performer Plus
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/camshafts/
As for priming the oil pump for 20 minutes!!!!.
Cover the camshaft bearings and lifters with assembly lube.
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81950-Ul ... B000HBNVSK
As you haven't touched the bottom end of the engine you oil pump should still be primed. Fill the oil filter with oil before putting it on.
Fill the cooling system with water rather than antifreeze mixture. That way if you find a leak in anything, all you're losing is water.
Take the spark plugs out and spin the engine on the starter motor until you have oil pressure showing at the gauge. That ensures that oil has completely circulated throughout the engine. This may take 30 to 40 seconds of spinning until the gauge needle shows pressure, not 20 minutes.
Put the plugs back in and start the engine, watch closely for any leaks, oil or water.
Bring the idle speed up to about 1500 to 1800 RPM and maintain this fast idle speed for at least 15-20 minutes This is very important to allow the initial bedding in of the cam lobes and cam followers.
After the 15-20 minute high idle let the idle drop to normal for a few minutes, then shut the engine off.
Other than draining the water and replacing it with anti freeze and changing the oil and filter after 500 miles, your done.

Rocky did mine @ American Technique. Top guy and top work.

I would recommend doing the vale seats and springs while you are there. The LG4's smoke when the seats wear. As for Cam- I went for a Crane Powermax 2032. It's a great all-round cam that really woke it up.

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Thanks for the replies guys,

I have decided after talking to Roadcraft that i am going for the performer plus, fingers crossed that when we take the heads off the valve guides etc are OK, have new seals and assortment of gaskets to be replaced, currently fighting the nuts that hold the rear break cylinders on!

Si

Be sure to use break in additives for your camshaft and proper assembly lube, not the runny stuff they give to you in a sachet with the cam.
Otherwise it WILL wreck your cam/engine with metal shavings, I cannot stress it enough how import the correct break in procedure for flat tappet cams!
Also the additives should be put in the oil every time its changed since modern oils don't have the correct zinc contents for flat these engines.

Since you have a carb motor its a going to be easy to tune so heres a link to build up of an LG4:

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccr ... ine-build/

Hope that helps and please post some engine pics or even better dynos of the gains you get after the install

UKzz4, thats a roller cam was this on a carb motor or efi?

Hello, well we used the lube that came with the camshaft but it was a know brand in a tube, more gel like than runny! And yes have done all my homework, have engine break in oil with very high zinc content for start up and have a primer tool for the pump before its started, have a good zinc oil for every day running after break in is done.

Engine is back together and now we are fitting the radiator and new electric fan, will post here when it's done!