Joined:Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:40 pm Posts:3245 Car Details:'79 Camaro, 350 V8 Location:South Bucks
Yes, plastic primer will work as it's designed to flex. You can always use flex additive in normal paint if you like, think you add about 10%.
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Joined:Tue Oct 28, 2014 8:45 am Posts:287 Car Details:1981 Camaro Z28 Location:Essex
Quote:
Yes, plastic primer will work as it's designed to flex. You can always use flex additive in normal paint if you like, think you add about 10%.
If you know a way of opening an aerosol can and adding the flex additive I'm all ears! I don't have a spray gun, compressor or any knowledge of how to use one, but thanks for the information regarding the primer.
Joined:Fri Sep 18, 2015 11:21 am Posts:33 Car Details:1972 Camaro SS Yellow with black stripes
Yes as 78 Camaro said, use the plastic primer but get a reasonable make. Hycote is ok! The Bumpers don't flex that much really,
Some paint suppliers will make up an aerosol of your colour for you but not too sure if a flex agent would be an option in that.
I have used clear adhesive primers in aerosol before & they worked very well, but the proper way is to use all the pro materials.
I know you are limited in your resources & it sounds like you will be fine using what is available to you.
By the way, make sure you use a good degreaser on the plastic first. If you don't have a pro one, use meths but be quick as it can be a bit aggressive.
As Maverick suggests, give it a really good clean, scuff it with a scotchbrite and re-clean. Top coat as Maverick says it quite flexible, i've kept bits that have been left over in the bottom of paint mix cup and even a year later you can easily flex them 45 degrees and it doesn't crack. You should be all good
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Joined:Thu Jul 21, 2011 2:16 pm Posts:815 Car Details:1980 2nd Gen, 6.0 iron block LS, 4.11 12 bolt axle, Brute Strength Posi, Lowered 2", sub frame connectors, G-braces, Carbon hood and front bumper cover Location:Norfolk
I used lechler 2k epoxy with their flexible additive. If you don't have the necessary equipment any of the rattle can plastic primers will work.
Cellulose based top coats are too hard for plastic and will crack. 2k polyurethane paints are very flexible. Water based or acrylic are somewhere between the 2.
2k needs some care when spraying - if in doubt, don't do it!
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Joined:Tue Oct 28, 2014 8:45 am Posts:287 Car Details:1981 Camaro Z28 Location:Essex
Quote:
Yes as 78 Camaro said, use the plastic primer but get a reasonable make. Hycote is ok! The Bumpers don't flex that much really,
Some paint suppliers will make up an aerosol of your colour for you but not too sure if a flex agent would be an option in that.
I have used clear adhesive primers in aerosol before & they worked very well, but the proper way is to use all the pro materials.
I know you are limited in your resources & it sounds like you will be fine using what is available to you.
By the way, make sure you use a good degreaser on the plastic first. If you don't have a pro one, use meths but be quick as it can be a bit aggressive.
Good luck!
I got plenty of paint prep wipes which I'm guessing will be satisfactory? Also cellulose thinners, meths and white spirit. Generally I'm using Simoniz when it comes to aerosol. I did but some Hycote grey primer and filler primer. As primers go, so far no complaints. Not tried their paint or lacquer.
As Maverick suggests, give it a really good clean, scuff it with a scotchbrite and re-clean. Top coat as Maverick says it quite flexible, i've kept bits that have been left over in the bottom of paint mix cup and even a year later you can easily flex them 45 degrees and it doesn't crack. You should be all good
Can you comment on the U Pol product vs Hycote? i.e a significant difference, possibly cracking in the paint and lacquer after time?
Thanks for the links Is scotchbite really necessary? I've acquired all grades of sand paper from 40 grit to 7000 in the past month.
Joined:Fri Sep 18, 2015 11:21 am Posts:33 Car Details:1972 Camaro SS Yellow with black stripes
you are getting in too deep with all those thoughts.
As I said before, The correct way if you think you may have those problems is to go with all the correct professional materials including adhesion promoters & 2k paints with flex agents etc.
It will cost you an absolute fortune though!!!!
Just go with what people have suggested (and your budget allows ) & you should be fine!
Joined:Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:40 pm Posts:3245 Car Details:'79 Camaro, 350 V8 Location:South Bucks
Quote:
Is scotchbite really necessary? I've acquired all grades of sand paper from 40 grit to 7000 in the past month
If you've already got sandpaper (sounds like you've got plenty ) then no worries on the scotchbrite ( i was thinking that if you didn't have any, then it's cheaper buying a pad vs. a pack of sandpaper that you'll probably never need again). If the surface is ready (repaired), then a fine sanding grit will be ok, just enough to give you a key, something like 600 -800. I found the tech sheet for Upol and it doesn't require sanding after application and requires topcoat within an hour, so it will go on quite thin:
Not sure of the differences between the 2 products, i have used a few of Upols products, including their weld through primers and have found them to be a good product. Their target market is the professional bodyshop and hobbyist and i think you pay a bit for the name. I personally always use their fillers (they are categorised as premium level - base coat safe etc.) and rattle can weld through primers. I know people that use their 2k products (clear coat etc) and it's decent, but it's not PPG, Glasurit. There's obviously a price difference there too.
If i had to make a spot repair and didn't have access to 2k, based on my experience and products i've used, i would go with the Upol primer, have a paint shop mix the correct colour in a small rattle can and then go with a Upol rattle can clear, with no hesitation. The Hycote could be the same quality, or better or worse, but i can't say as i've not personally used it.
Rattle cans have come a bit of a distance and certainly are better quality and have good hold out, so i wouldn't be too worried. As Maverick suggests, the only real way to get around this is to go down the 2k route. Even then, you still get problems, so as long as long as you do a good prep job and lay down the material well, you'll get a good result. In perspective, I have a car that had a respray (before my possession) and it was a full respray with 2k, same colour, just a freshen up. I put masking tape around some polythene sheet that i put over the car (as the weather strips are non existent) and when i pulled the masking tape up - it brought a lot of paint with it! So even with 2k you can get a bad job. What i'm getting at is don't worry - you're already doing the right bit and as long as you stay away from the bargain bin materials you will get a good result. It's possible now to get 2k in a can, both primer and colour. You basically click something on the can and it releases the 2 chemicals:
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How to post youtube vids: Click on the 'youtubeHD' button at the top of the message box and in the middle of the ][ brackets that just appeared, copy and paste everything from the youtube web address that appears after the = sign i.e if this is the url: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2cNqaPSHv0 just copy "K2cNqaPSHv0").
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as it's designed to flex. You can always use flex additive in normal paint if you like, think you add about 10%.
I don't have a spray gun, compressor or any knowledge of how to use one, but thanks for the information regarding the primer. 