The Camaro Club (UK)

If the bottom end is good, why not buy some aluminium heads for it ?

I was thinking that but while the engine is out and stripped I would have liked to have renewed all bearings and rings plus a honing, the cost of this plus heads, and new camshaft and lifters would have took me to the price of the new engine.
Engineering firms in Germany are expensive so honing would have cost a lot.

I should be able to make some money back on the short block which I can do in slow time, and next time I visit the UK I will bring the block with me for the honing.
I will sand blast it change all frost plugs, fit new bearing and ring and a nice paint.

2300 pounds for the new engine is not that bad, I would have been looking at around 1100 pounds just for the heads
Plus this way the engine will be standard which I like

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Remember the days when sex was safe and car racing was dangerous.......

I get your point, fair reason.

I´d be loathe to get any engine work done here in Spain, have´nt a clue where to look.

A few days ago I replaced my U joints and needed a tool, a bar of metal bent into a U shape, the legs 70mm apart.

I took my metal bar to a metal working shop and the man said he´s do it.

He managed the first bend on his little folder but the length of the bent bar would´nt allow the second bend.

He ASKED me what to do next, I said heat it up hot and bend it in the vise.

He got it about luke warm and proceeded to whack it with a little hammer, not even hitting it where the bend should be close to the vise jaw.

He looks up...."Does it have to look nice ?"........"No, not now."

He got the legs 75mm apart, just good enough.

No faith in any "professional" here at all.

Well guys after a long slog and spending plenty of money the car is finally back on the road.

New engine which now matches the year of car a reconditioned gearbox which I did myself.
She runs like a dream apart from one problem, she has a small oil leak at the front of the sump. This has upset me as the engine was newly reconditioned and I was expecting a drip free zone in the garage for once I mean come on I spent the time to high pressure wash the garage floor and get rid of all them oil stains

If anyone has a tip as to how to remove the sump with out the unnecessary removing of all the other stuff and lifting the engine please let me know

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Remember the days when sex was safe and car racing was dangerous.......

Good to hear your on the road again, can you not nip most of the sump bolts up from underneath?

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1997 30th Anniversary SS SLP
1993 GMC Typhoon

nipped and double nipped
I hate the cork gaskets, I really wish that before I fitted the engine I fitted a rubber sump gasket. Hind sight is a truly amazing thing

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Remember the days when sex was safe and car racing was dangerous.......

I've seen the standard sump pulled on Camaros with the engine in place, unbolt engine mounts, exhausts, and fan (as it'll hit the radiator) and it can be tilted back a fair way, but it's very tight with distributor against the bulkhead, as that and the gearbox against the tunnel will limit the movement.

Sometimes the timing covers can leak too, and it'll look like the front of sump.

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“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.”

Far better to "go the extra mile" lift the motor and do the job with space to work and get it all really clean , the rubber gasket is the way to go , maybe a project to do in the winter ?
Good to hear it is running well

One piece rear seal ?

Nah, he's got a 327 1967 engine, so nice old style leaky 2 piece one..

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“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.”