The Camaro Club (UK)

here you go:

(the red on my finger nails is from painting the car, not from nail varnish lol)



https://youtu.be/fE5a_Vkfv4U

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Cheers mate, that's brilliant!

Good idea about the bit of aluminium into the sticky-out bit on the side of the mechanism. If I could get something springy to wedge in there, it might just do the trick. Short of that, I'll jam some wood in it like you suggest!

I'll dig out my feedback Q-Jet setup books ASAP.
But to help I thought a quick explanation of the feedback carb system might help.
The carb has a solenoid inside which pulses on and off at a 50% duty cycle, meaning half the time the solenoid is on, the other half it's off. When the solenoid turns on it pulls a pair of needles down into jets, and when it's off they return up under spring pressure.
So the computer reads the engine coolant temperature sensor and all the time its below operating temperature the duty cycle stays at 50%. When the engine is up to operating temperature the computer reads the O2 sensor. If it's running rich it increases the duty cycle so that the needles spend longer inside the jets restricting the fuel flow. If it's lean they spend less time inside the jets which richens up the mixture.
If, when the engine is running, you can hear a ticking from the solenoid, it means it's working, if not it means it's stuck in the up/richen position which may explain the choke not being needed.
If you have problems I would suggest changing the carb, I have rebuilt hundreds of these carbs and have the official Rochester kit to do it, but if they are not set up just right they will never run properly.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccr ... r-rebuild/

Thanks Neil!

I've been reading up as much as I can on the carb, but carbs in general are still a little alien to me. I've bought the Haynes book on qjets and I'm waiting for it to arrive - not sure if it's the best book or not, but the reviews seemed to suggest it fills in the gaping hole in the main Haynes manual on the E4ME.

How loud is the solenoid? The car's on open headers, and not much can be heard over it! Is there a way to test the solenoid using a multimeter?

I did wonder if the carb is running rich. The car runs better with the pcv unplugged (albeit with the vacuum line plugged) and I've read this can be a symptom of a rich-running carb. Although the explanation was that the extra air from the open line was providing sufficient air for the carb to burn the over-rich fuel, and I'm plugging the line... Interestingly, someone has tried (unsuccessfully...) to drill out the plugs covering the adjustment screws. Perhaps I have a problem carb...

Would you suggest replacing the carb with another qjet, or going the vacuum-secondary Holley route? Reman qjets don't seem terribly expensive. Although I've heard reman units still need a bit of setting up.

My priority at the moment is to get the car back on the road and MOT'able, even if the carb isn't optimal! I'm pondering sticking a choke thermostat cover back on (£30 delivered from Rockauto) to see if that will make it idle cold.

I'm also wondering about the Idle Speed Control. The plunger doesn't seem to connect with the throttle mechanism, so I'm not convinced it's raising the idle at cold as it should... but then I don't know if it works independently of the choke mechanism... or how it works at all...

Sorry, that turned into quite a ramble! A lot of questions... All wisdom is welcome!

Looking at picture 4 from the link I posted, if you put the sharp end of a screwdriver on that tower and your ear to the blunt end (make sure you get the orientation correct) you will hear a very distinct ticking, can't miss it.
As for a replacement, TBI would be my first choice closely followed by a Holley. The Q-Jet was good in it's day but most have been rebuilt numerous times and suffer from stripped threads, warped bodies and general bodging damage.

I managed to find my old Mitchell on demand CD's showing how to rebuild the Q-Jet and the wiring diagram and test procedure, but they are both pdf format and I can't post them.
Any ideas anyone?

Thanks for the screwdriver tip - I'll try that at the weekend.

Interesting you rate the TBi highest - I had pondered this but assumed it would require a new intake (or adaptor), plus new computer and wiring harness? My preference would be to get something like this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROCHESTER-QUA ... 418f256dd8

and (fingers crossed) it would be plug-and-play.

May I suggest, brand new, not reconditioned and at at a much reduced price, and I love that it's available in black:

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/ ... rmer.shtml

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... &ppt=C0261

And purchasers seem very happy
http://www.amazon.com/Edelbrock-1406-Pe ... B000182DIS

And E-Bay has plenty for sale both new and used