I'm still waiting for the slip yoke to arrive from the USA, and the weather has been really crap this weekend anyway so I decided to make a start on looking at this LQ engine block and figuring out how the hell I am going to fix it.
Pulled all of the pistons out of the bores - all new but missing pins and locks. Not a major problem as I might need to get another set that has valve reliefs cut as I am pretty sure I am going to run into valve to piston clearance with the sort of cam I am planning to run.
Set about checking the rest of the block over for cracks and it all seems to be OK. Checked the bores and water jacket all over and found nothing - messy job with the dye pen fluids. So that just leaves the 2 on the bottom left corner of the block where some muppet has dropped it.
Drilled the ends of the cracks as deep as I dared and ground them out. Haven't gone too mad with them as they aren't really in critical load areas of the block. But one of them is right on the back of the oil passage down the side of the block so it needs sealing up otherwise it'll leak oil. The areas of the block aren't too thick, so it should be possible to get enough heat into it (I hope!). The plan is to use HTS-528 rods for the repairs
This one is pretty simple.
The other is the one on the oil passage. The corner of the block was broken away where the sump bolt hole is. So I drilled it all the way through and then cut off the damaged part - not that it was held on by much anyway. The intention being to make a new threaded boss and dowel it to the hole I drilled through. I'll probably braze it up without the boss fitted and then just fit the boss later as it's not structural, it just needs to hold the back of the sump to the block. This gives the best chance of sealing up the crack... I think...
I've also measured the oil pan and started thinking about modifying that. It's a stock pan from a truck/Escalade and is 8" deep. Too deep for the Camaro. I haven't worked out how much I need to cut off it yet though... I've got the pick up pipe as well, but that's just steel pipe that can be cut to suit. You can buy an LS swap sump kit, but I'm not paying $200 for the privilege of that...
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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange!
Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X
4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.
Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.