The Camaro Club (UK)

That would make it a lot easier if you can track one down as Malc suggests!

Think i've figured it out now, just have to try and put it into words. I made a mistake originally, the signal lights are Dark Green and Yellow, one for each side (Blue is used up front).

1) To get the indicators working: You'll need to cut the Dark green and the Yellow wire near the bulb housing and put a bullet connector on both ends of this cut wire - male bullet goes onto the bulb holder side, female end on the wire that comes from the loom. Take that Female end and that will go to the current reverse light. Snip the reverse light wire (light green) near the bulb holder, bullet it same as before, now connect the coloured male bulleted wire to the female bulleted reverse light , change out the bulb for an amber one. Do that on each side and you now have amber indicators. Now, when you push the brake, the amber lights will light up. So, let's fix that:

2) Find the Stoplight Switch , which is by the brake pedal, literally is bolted to it. There is an orange and white wire. Orange is electricity into the switch, white is electricity out when the pedal is pressed. Hopefully, depending on the switch, you can pull off the white cable and put a new long wire in with a female spade connector. This female spade connector will just go onto the terminal that the white wire was on. Run that wire all the way to the back of the car, ensuring it can comfortably carry 42watts (42w / 12v = 3.5amp, plus several feet of resistance, would suggest 5amp wire). Female bullet it and add a second wire into that first female bullet, so that it can run to the 2nd rear light (hope that made sense!). Connect that up to the wires that were originally cut, that go into the bulb holder for the stop and tail bulb - you should have a Dark Green and a Yellow male bulleted wire hanging free from the bulb housing, so connect this new wire into there.

Voila. Ed's job done for him

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Cheers,

I'll take another gander tomorrow.

One tip I've been given by a 350 veteran about valve stems is that you can do them without taking the heads off if you push enough nylon rope down the plug hole to stop the valve dropping too far. We'll have to see.... !

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Why do they call it "Rush Hour", when nothing moves?

Get the piston near to TDC and then push some nylon rope into the spark plug hole.
Now bring the piston up to press it tight.
Then using one of these valve compressor tools you can crack the valve stem locks and remove the seals.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/s ... /overview/



Or one of these....



http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/s ... /overview/

I love this site

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Why do they call it "Rush Hour", when nothing moves?

I have had no problem with my rear lights in Germany but I did have to change my front lights around a bit.
So I have brake, tail and indicators all off one light section.

To tell you the truth I think it spoils the look of the car not having red turn signals plus you loose originality
You could look through the VOSA MOT manual yourself http://www.motinfo.gov.uk/htdocs and see if there is a loop hole.

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Remember the days when sex was safe and car racing was dangerous.......

Looks like i'll be redoing the wiring on the back of the 3rd gen. Just been out to fit LED's into the tail lights as they use quite a bit of juice seeing as there are 6 tail and stop lights. 1) Found that most LED's have too short of a connection on them on the bottom So need to solder a bit on there to ensure there is a contact to the bottom contact point of the bulb holder. 2) Out of the 3 lights per side, only 2 are wired up to work with the brake lights. Light green wire (reverse light) is wired up as an indicator but seems to be done further down stream as the wire isn't cut near the bulb, like the others. All the other wires have been cut and sealed with duct tape I'll need to get a dual bulb holder to replace the reverse light, as that's a single holder - want to have reverse lights and indicators in the clear housing. Already got the switchback LED's for it. Also would like the third light one each side to also be a brake light and not just a running light - already has the dual filament bulb, it's just not wired up. Will leave this job for a while as it's low priority. When braking at traffic lights with the heat on, running lights on and the defroster (when it works) the volts don't like it too much. Not to mention if the electric radiator fan kicks in. Would like to sort it sooner than later but got to sort out the defroster and of course sort the Camaro!

_________________
How to post pics: When writing a message, scroll down and use the "attach file" option. Where possible, a photo sharing service can be used such as Flickr, Imgur etc. The image location (usually ending in .jpg) can be copy and pasted between the ][ brackets that appear when you click the 'Img' button (you can find this button at the top of the message box).

How to post youtube vids: Click on the 'youtubeHD' button at the top of the message box and in the middle of the ][ brackets that just appeared, copy and paste everything from the youtube web address that appears after the = sign i.e if this is the url: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2cNqaPSHv0 just copy "K2cNqaPSHv0").

I just thought 3rd gen tail lights are very similar......wonder if they'd fit.

Well the Camaro is finally fixed and has an MOT!

The rear light issue was solved by using the reversing lenses as the third set and running a new cable from the brake pedal switch. The Mini headlights worked but the GM holders needed heavy modification with a grinder to take them. Shame as they were original.

Many thanks for all the help and good ideas...

Now it is a case of solving a leak in the TH350 sump pan - new gasket did not help. We are trying a specialist sealant. If it works I will let you know...

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Why do they call it "Rush Hour", when nothing moves?

You can get cast aluminium sump pans, which won't bend, bit drastic really, but will undoubghtedly seal better..

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“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.”

Aluminium transmission pans, way better than stamped steel.
I used to have a deep pan but with lowered springs it got too much damage.
You get a drain plug too and the sides are thick enough to tap for a temperature sender.

Here at Summit, TH350 pans....
http://www.summitracing.com/dom/search/ ... =Ascending