The Camaro Club (UK)

I've only driven the car about 50 miles since I picked her up but one thing I've noticed that's quite annoying is the steering of the car.

I'm well aware that classic American cars have generally very little feed back and rather light power steering. However is it normal for me to be constantly re adjusting the wheel while driving in a straight line? Ok, their only minor adjustments but it's as if the steering feels loose and overly vague. I can make quarter turn input either left or right with the wheels dead straight and seemingly there's nothing going on.

Any ideas?

Where to start? Because I race my car (Mustang but similar problems normally) I am not allowed to change from stock steering. So, I have looked into it to see if I can make it better (raceable) and to cut a long story short, what I have found is the steering boxes are not badly worn but the way they are set up stops them working properly. Years of idiots changing parts without paying attention to how it should be means that things are often working against you.
However, all ball joints and steering parts must be in good condition to begin with.
Are you able to do mechanical work on the car? If not, I won't waste my time explaining how to set it up but if you are able, then I may be able to help. I doubt you are near enough for me to do it myself.
Cheers, Martin

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Many thanks for the info there Martin

I have some mechanical expertise, but not a great deal and unfortunately not a great deal of space to be able to leave the car in pieces while work is undertaken.

I did wonder if might be worn ball joints and that's something the local garage will check out for me. You say the steering box has a lot to do with this peculiar sensation I mentioned? I really don't have a great deal of history regarding that area and thus unable to comment upon whether someone has played about with it in its 35 years of existence. If the box does require attention/adjustment, just what can be done?

Chances are, as Sportsroof says, it's just worn steering and suspension components.

The amount of times I've seen cars at shows and meets, where the outside is all shiny and nice, but look underneath and they're still running the worn out 30 - 40 year old bushings.
I'd check the bushes worn ball joints, worn steering track ends, plus on 2nd gens the steering idler arm and pitman arm do wear fairly quickly in my experience.
It's possible the steering box has some play but not as excessive as you describe, only other moving part is the rag joint in the steering column that connects the box to the steering shaft (hidden in a plastic shroud), but it's usually not that bad, and would give that much play.

You can buy these steering/suspension bits as a front end service kit from some suppliers too.

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“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.”

Just to clarify then: Assuming all joints/bushes are good, there can still be a problem, here's how.
Steering box has a 'tight spot' in the middle of it's sweep, which should correspond with the steering wheel central AND front wheels pointing dead ahead. All happy then, yes?
Unfortunately parts replacement can mean the wheel ends up off centre so someone alters this to make it look right. Now you are driving straight but are away from the tight spot so there is play, and when you try to make a small correction, there may be slight resistance (the tight spot) which you have to then fight with as it's usually right where you don't want it to be so you end up sawing at the wheel try to go straight! Maybe a bit exaggerated to illustrate the problem but you get the idea. Plus the steering boxes can usually be adjusted up to eliminate play.
FWIW, mine has an original 44 year old box and with it all set up nicely, it steers fine with one finger and thumb at 130+.
Cheers, Martin

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Maybe all that's needed is to adjust the Worm Bearing Preload and Sector Lash.

http://dev.lv2014.integr8cms.net/index. ... ector-lash

Maybe your steering box is not adjusted like the instructions I posted above.
A Chiltern manual for your car will show you how.
If your box is the same as a third gen I could scan the pages.

My 4th gen SS is the worst car I have driven as far as following the camber or lorry tracks is concerned, fat tyres and stiff suspension are the cause and it actually mentions that this is to be expected in the cars handbook

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1997 30th Anniversary SS SLP
1993 GMC Typhoon

If you've got more aggressive geometry,such as lots of positive camber etc.. (like me) it'll react badly to rutted roads and truck grooves on motorways.. but it'll turn in nicely

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“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.”

Fit new bushings and look for a 3rd gen IROC steering box which is 2.25 turns lock to lock. You'll need to change the pitman arm over, and get some different hoses, other than that its a great swap and costs very little.

As others have said worth getting the geometry checked out as well. Replace the front subframe bushes first then looks at the suspension arm ones. Also get those 35 yr old ball joints changed.

I did all of the above to mine and it transformed the way it behaves on the road.

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.