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PostPosted:Wed Apr 09, 2014 8:39 pm 
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Big Block
User avatar

Joined:Fri May 11, 2012 10:54 pm
Posts:463
Car Details:4th Gen ls1
Lowered,rollin on 18"s
Lots of std stuff
Location:Wiltshire
Quote:
Quote:
Ah, the parts hanger syndrome.
For those who haven't heard the term it's someone who has no idea why the car isn't running properly so they take wild guesses and start throwing parts at it using the logic that one of the parts has to fix the problem.
I worked for Checkers, now O'Reilleys auto parts for a few years, and we had a regular clientele of supposed auto repair professionals who would buy say, a temperature sensor and then try and return it when it didn't fix the problem. We made lots of money from them :mrgreen:

Question number 1: Does the check engine light come on when you turn the ignition on?
Question number 2: Does the light stay on when the engine is running?

I assume that was aimed towards me? I told him to check it, not replace it...

No Fiero I feel it's aimed at me.
So here goes and yes it's hit a raw nerve. :evil:

Call it what you want.

What's worse is stores/parts people who also have no clue about how to fix them and offer advice as if they do think they know, yes we have names for parts personnel too.

If there were no codes stored in the engine control module and you looked at the live data (if possible) but still can't see anything abnormal or have no data specs to check against, what do you do???? I don't know about the clientele you have dealt with but personally I use logic not wild guesses as Fiero said. If the temp sensor isn't working right and doesn't show the ECU the correct reading it won't enrich the mixture.
So if there's no codes stored, no air leaks, fuel good and the live data looks ok, what would you take a punt on????

It's bad enough when they can't get it correct on brand new vehicles that have issues. Many a time have Ford technical/engineering, the guys that make and write the software don't know how to fix them but yes sometimes there is a bit of guess work but always logical and in order ie. cheapest part 1st, not the other way round ie. fit a £700 pound TBI unit to then find it was a £12 temp sensor!!!

Im on here to help if i can not to take the piss out of others trying to help :x

There at least I feel better!!!!
Glad you got it sorted Nick

You say your timing was out for the cutting out fault but which timing ??
Ignition/spark or base engine ie. crank to cam??????

_________________
Some days it just isn't worth chewing through the restraints !!!!


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Re: Stalling after cold start PLEASE HELP!

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PostPosted:Thu Apr 10, 2014 12:46 am 
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Big Block

Joined:Wed Aug 01, 2012 6:56 pm
Posts:97
Car Details:1990 Camaro 5lt RS manual with T-tops.
It seems to be quite a case with people in the American car parts industry not having much of a clue about the products there selling. Think i know of 2 places i would get parts (if i couldn't/wouldn't wait for anybody in America) one guy who lives in bedford(i think), although he happily admitted to not knowing a lot about the cars, but his customer service and all round nice guy made up for that, and Auto Pontiac people.

I know i wouldn't go to real steal ever again (Along with 12 other people who Ive put on to other places).
I only really wanted to make this post to say Real Steal are shit lol.

What did you set your timing to in the end Nick?

_________________
http://www.cubicinches.co.uk - for all displacement petrol heads in the UK!


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PostPosted:Mon Apr 14, 2014 11:46 pm 
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Big Block

Joined:Sun Jul 25, 2010 3:40 pm
Posts:206
Location:Roswell New Mexico
Quote:


I assume that was aimed towards me? I told him to check it, not replace it...
No.
It's just that on all the forums when someone says "My car won't start", or "It's not running right", the posting is always followed by a string of "It's, this, because that's what it was on my car"
I tried to help by giving a link to a site showing how to read the ALDL connector and pull any error codes. My posting was then followed by another "It must be this". So try as I might to help, the straightening of a paperclip to read the codes wasn't even considered. And this was compounded by the statement after the problem was cured by setting the timing that; "My check engine light now stays off" !!!!!

To go back to the original posting.

My car starts but while it's cold it won't rev.

A few possible causes:

Plugged fuel filter
Weak fuel pump
Faulty fuel pressure regulator
Plugged injector
Air leak on the intake manifold, throttle body, brake vacuum hose, PCV hose
Plugged air filter
Faulty EGR valve
Plugged catalytic convertor
Faulty ECM
Faulty TPS
Faulty MAP sensor
Vacuum line to the MAP sensor leaking.

These are not guesses, as I've seen all these and many more when I was working for the State of California and the State of Nevada vehicle emission enforcement programs.


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PostPosted:Tue Apr 15, 2014 5:45 pm 
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Big Block
User avatar

Joined:Sun Jan 13, 2013 7:00 am
Posts:1158
Car Details:1986 Camaro, bought into Spain by me in 1993.
305 replaced by a 355, 750 Demon carb, RPM AirGap intake, Brodix heads, Hedman Hedders, 3" Flowmaster exhaust.
Wheels are Summit aluminium 5 spokes, tyres are 245 rear 225 front BF Goodrich.
B/M transmission, battery relocated to the rear, GoodMark 4" cowl steel hood.
Location:Spain East Coast
Another forum, poster has similar problems, check the replies out.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215997


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PostPosted:Tue Apr 15, 2014 6:08 pm 
Offline
Big Block
User avatar

Joined:Sun Jan 13, 2013 7:00 am
Posts:1158
Car Details:1986 Camaro, bought into Spain by me in 1993.
305 replaced by a 355, 750 Demon carb, RPM AirGap intake, Brodix heads, Hedman Hedders, 3" Flowmaster exhaust.
Wheels are Summit aluminium 5 spokes, tyres are 245 rear 225 front BF Goodrich.
B/M transmission, battery relocated to the rear, GoodMark 4" cowl steel hood.
Location:Spain East Coast
Automotive Recall and Technical Service Bulletin Titles for 1991 Chevrolet Camaro RS V8-305 5.0L VIN E TBI.
http://www.alldatadiy.com/TSB/10/911044hx.html

I searched "cold start problem 1991 RS 5.0 tbi" and apart from your problem, which comes out on top, there
are a load of sites/forums dealing with this problem.


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PostPosted:Thu Apr 17, 2014 1:14 pm 
Offline
Big Block

Joined:Sun Jul 25, 2010 3:40 pm
Posts:206
Location:Roswell New Mexico
Quote:
Another forum, poster has similar problems, check the replies out.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215997
Especially the last paragraph of posting #13 :mrgreen:


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PostPosted:Sun Apr 20, 2014 2:00 pm 
Offline
Big Block

Joined:Wed Aug 01, 2012 6:56 pm
Posts:97
Car Details:1990 Camaro 5lt RS manual with T-tops.
Quote:
Quote:


I assume that was aimed towards me? I told him to check it, not replace it...
No.
It's just that on all the forums when someone says "My car won't start", or "It's not running right", the posting is always followed by a string of "It's, this, because that's what it was on my car"
I tried to help by giving a link to a site showing how to read the ALDL connector and pull any error codes. My posting was then followed by another "It must be this". So try as I might to help, the straightening of a paperclip to read the codes wasn't even considered. And this was compounded by the statement after the problem was cured by setting the timing that; "My check engine light now stays off" !!!!!

To go back to the original posting.

My car starts but while it's cold it won't rev.

A few possible causes:

Plugged fuel filter
Weak fuel pump
Faulty fuel pressure regulator
Plugged injector
Air leak on the intake manifold, throttle body, brake vacuum hose, PCV hose
Plugged air filter
Faulty EGR valve
Plugged catalytic convertor
Faulty ECM
Faulty TPS
Faulty MAP sensor
Vacuum line to the MAP sensor leaking.

These are not guesses, as I've seen all these and many more when I was working for the State of California and the State of Nevada vehicle emission enforcement programs.
You should seriously consider a new career change if you think over half of them can cause a car not to idle properly when cold but be fine when warm...
If something is blocked then it will stay blocked no matter the temperature... and effect the car more at higher revs.

What did you set the timing to Nick?

_________________
http://www.cubicinches.co.uk - for all displacement petrol heads in the UK!


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PostPosted:Mon Apr 21, 2014 10:42 am 
Offline
Big Block
User avatar

Joined:Fri May 11, 2012 10:54 pm
Posts:463
Car Details:4th Gen ls1
Lowered,rollin on 18"s
Lots of std stuff
Location:Wiltshire
This thread is so disjointed


If trick nick had wrote that the mil light was on in the very 1st post (i cant se a metion of it) then it would have changed the complete log of posts on here
Quote:
Another forum, poster has similar problems, check the replies out.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215997
As above thats the difference between arm chair tecnicians and real ones
Quote:

Especially the last paragraph of posting #13 :mrgreen:
I agree with this as what those numptys have suggested is mad !!!!! 12 years master tec status still hasnt sorted the problem tho !!!
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:


I assume that was aimed towards me? I told him to check it, not replace it...
No.
It's just that on all the forums when someone says "My car won't start", or "It's not running right", the posting is always followed by a string of "It's, this, because that's what it was on my car"
I tried to help by giving a link to a site showing how to read the ALDL connector and pull any error codes. My posting was then followed by another "It must be this". So try as I might to help, the straightening of a paperclip to read the codes wasn't even considered. And this was compounded by the statement after the problem was cured by setting the timing that; "My check engine light now stays off" !!!!!

To go back to the original posting.

My car starts but while it's cold it won't rev.

A few possible causes:

Plugged fuel filter
Weak fuel pump
Faulty fuel pressure regulator
Plugged injector
Air leak on the intake manifold, throttle body, brake vacuum hose, PCV hose
Plugged air filter
Faulty EGR valve
Plugged catalytic convertor
Faulty ECM
Faulty TPS
Faulty MAP sensor
Vacuum line to the MAP sensor leaking.

These are not guesses, as I've seen all these and many more when I was working for the State of California and the State of Nevada vehicle emission enforcement programs.
You should seriously consider a new career change if you think over half of them can cause a car not to idle properly when cold but be fine when warm...
If something is blocked then it will stay blocked no matter the temperature... and effect the car more at higher revs.

What did you set the timing to Nick?
When i read this post i looked at each poss cause and thought about dissecting it and put it all down on here but i cant be arsed
Quote:
Hey guys OP here, IT WAS THE TIMING!

I eventually got the cold start issue sorted. It was the coolant temperature sensor, started on the button after that and the check engine light that used to come on after a minuet or so stopped coming on.

However, then it started to stall when the engine was at operating temperature and I was in gear stopped at say a red light. That turned out to be a timing issue. The issue being that it was quite a bit out. Dunno how or why but it was. Got the timing set again last year or so and have had no problems.

Hope you get it sorted mate good luck.
Obviously needs reading again :wtf:

_________________
Some days it just isn't worth chewing through the restraints !!!!


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PostPosted:Tue Apr 22, 2014 12:50 pm 
Offline
Big Block

Joined:Sun Jul 25, 2010 3:40 pm
Posts:206
Location:Roswell New Mexico
Quote:
You should seriously consider a new career change if you think over half of them can cause a car not to idle properly when cold but be fine when warm...
If something is blocked then it will stay blocked no matter the temperature... and effect the car more at higher revs.
Sorry, I obviously confused you.
When we use the term plugged it means partially or fully blocked. With that clarified perhaps you should review the possible causes I listed.
As for a change of career, why? I enjoy being a cop.


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