The Camaro Club (UK)

hello all

Having a massive ball ache with the Camaro at the moment. Went to move the the car out of the garage last week, I pressed the brake to put it in drive and my foot went straight to the floor and I hear fluid pissing out underneath. I've had a look at it and the copper brake pipe has corroded just below the fitting in the wheel arch where it meets the bracket for the brake caliper hose.

I've got it apart, but bear in mind I've never touched any brake pipes before. The rest of the pipe looks intact, would I be able to simply replace a small section at the end where it has failed? Or should I replace the whole pipe?

Also does anyone know what size pipe and fittings I will require?

Thanks

Michael

Should be the standard size brake pipe that you can get, dont know off top of my head but motor factors wil sell copper replacements. Doing it fully correct would be to do the whole pipe, but I believe it runs right to ABS unit and will be a massive hassle. I'd just replace from a clear bit of pipe you can see. You'll need a tool to mould the ends of the pipe and a joining connector , dont forget to put the connectors on the pipe before you shape both sides though

_________________
'99 Z28 A4, 253 LS2 heads, 228R TSP cam, Patriol Dual Springs, Double roller timing chain, LS6 ported oil pump, OBX LTs, 3" True Duals, LS6 intake, 42lb/hr injectors, SLP lid + bellow, EFIlive COS 3 Speed Denisty Tune (self tuned), 3200 Circle D stall, CAI mod, KYB AGXs, Eibach Pro Front Springs, UMI panhard, LCA + Brackets, Strut Brace, Custom Subframe connectors, WS6 axle with 3.42s, 18" American Racing Rebels, US mirrors, 93 tail lights, 3.5 inch custom cowl hood. Mickey T's Street DRs on Vette-ZR1 wheels for the strip !
Best ET: 12.0 @ 116 mph (on a 0-60ft of 1.8 s)

Probably way more comprehensive than you need, but something like this...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-PIPE-RE ... 0289320181

_________________
“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.”

Hi , I've only just seen your post and maybe you've fixed it by now. If it's not too late this is the route I took when my brake pipe went in July. I contacted Courtesy Chevrolet in San Diego with the part number that I'd found online and had the complete unit sent out at a cost of $79, Courstesy Chevrolet couldn't have been more helpful and I'll be using them again, they have depots all across the States I think. it took an hour to fit using 3 spanners and a couple of screwdrivers.

Are you sure it´s copper ?

No it's steel. Either way, it has a hole in. Still not managed to fix this yet, couldn't get the union undone at the ABS module

Hi michaelg1001

Just my 2cents coming up


Either way is ok if the rest of the steel pipe thats leaking is ok then replace just a small section
There are 2 down sides to this and that is trying to flare the end of the pipe that remains on the vehicle
Over the years using the brake flare tool like chevystu linked on fleabay is that its never held the brake pipe tight enough when trying to flare the end of any size steel brake pipe !!! Just about works for copper brake pipe tho
Secondly is that it looks cheap As if you cant be arsed!! Sometimes we do just replace sections but thats normally down to cost stopping us from making full length pipes

From your last post i take it your making a new complete pipe which is what i would recommend as above if the union is to mashed when removed from the abs module try giving USAutomotive a ring as they were the guys that got us out of a hole when we were making brake pipes on an old american 4x4 as no uk motor factors could supply the correct brake pipe ends
They will know pipe size etc
Some on here would say they are a bit expensive but things ive have ordered for my 4th gen or for work jobs have been more than reasonable

As for struggling to remove the pipe are you using brake pipe spanners ?? If not get your hands on some if the nuts not too rounded off. If its gone past using spanners now try a little heat not too much like the wifes hairdryer etc and some molegrips on it
Hot air gun and moleys worked for me many times
Hope this helps
Stu

_________________
Some days it just isn't worth chewing through the restraints !!!!

Some good advice there for heat on brake pipe fittings I have used a gas soldering iron it works a treat

If you have not done it yet, cut of the pipe by the union at the ABS end and use a full drive socket (six sided) either metric or sae (can't remember what year they went metric)

When you have it off either measure the pipe if you like and I'll make one and send it to you or I have the tube nuts metric or unf thread and I can send you those if you like.

I think they are UNF on 1995 model's so if your using metric spaners your will chew up the nuts because they don't fit tight enough

if you have the tool by now and your making you own pipes, look at the end of the pipe to see if they are 1 opp or 2 opp

if your not sure put up a pick of the end and I can tell you the opps and thread

update!

Well after getting annoyed at it and leaving it a few weeks, I managed to get it off! A bit of penetrating spray and a big pair of grips, I eventually got it off from the module.

I'm going to take the pipe somewhere local and get a new one made up.

Thanks for all of your help and suggestions