The Camaro Club (UK)

Hey, can anyone help with a street setup for my 1969 Camaro? I’ve searched the internet and forums and found a few setups but with conflicting information (here’s one I bookmarked http://www.superchevy.com/technical/cha ... nt_basics/)

I’ve just changed my front tyres as the edges were scrubbed off, I’m running a cpp big block suspension kit up front including drop spindles, 215/45/17 tyres up front and I plan on changing the upper and lower ball joints and outer tie rod ends and a set of these to lift the front about 1" http://www.rickscamaros.com/camaro-coil ... -1981.html

So first question
[*] would I benefit from fitting the 'tall' tie rod ends and upper ball joints? Or just the normal spec ones?

And
[*] what would be a good wheel alignment spec for my car to stop it eating tyres for fun and drive well on the street? I can’t fault the drive as it is now it’s just the scrubbing of the tyres.
When the suspension kit was fitted about 4 year ago by the previous owner it was set to 3+ caster and ¾- camber, 1/8 toe in

key is to ensure that bottom wishbone is parallel to ground
info here:

Suspension settings non Global West negative Roll for full race
TCB Martin Thomas notes
Camber degrees -3 -3 as much neg as possible
Caster degrees 3 3 no more than 4.5
toe in 15 mins in 20 mins in
toe total 30 mins
Frt Spring Rate 650 lbs 800lbs
rear spring rate 150 lbs CF Bedford van springs

Type caster caster camber camber toe total
GW Settings L R L R
Street Performance 2 2 1/2 - 1/2 - 1/2 3/32
Hard street 2 2 1/2 -1 -1 3/32
Road racing 3 3 -1 3/4 -1 3/4 1/16
Drag Racing 3 3 0 0 1/32
All measurements taken with driver weight added
If vehicle has a lot of rack get as much caster available as long as camber is zero.
caster and camber are measured in degrees toe in minutes

_________________
Kind Regards
TopCat
Secretary
Classic Camaro Club
Member of The Association of American Car Clubs UK
Email :tboles@strathnoon.co.uk Websites: http://www.classiccamaroclubuk.com and:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdhLJtR_ZY4

So for normal street driving - drivers side caster +2.2 passenger side caster 1/2, both sides 1/2 camber and total toe in 3\32? Is this took into consideration about a 2" drop and wider radial tyres? What do you think about the tall ball joints and tie rod ends are they worth getting or not?

Those springs are to short and I dont think that spacer will fix your problem , with the angles you have shown you must be getting bump steer which may cause the uneven tyre ware or just under inflation?

Looking at the pic with the lower balljoint and disc I dont think the taller joint is an option as the arm will touch the disc I think?

I would not worry about caster and camber at the moment as with it set like it is it will be altering more than normal with every bump and movement.

Try to get your ride hight (as in the lower arm parallel to the road) and then set it up as to how you like it to drive ie I like to feel my steering pull back to straight after cornering and not wallow down the road following white lines, road works, etc. so I set up with more castor to help it centralise better.

would fitting a stock height spring be best then? to make it sit level, its supposed to have had a 2" drop in the rear as well, do they look like drop spindles or stock? because if its had drop spindles and a 1" drop spring as well that is probably why its scrubbing and eating ball joints, i cant fault the way it drives its just the wear and damage to suspension and tyres

that is a fine lookin car

Yep it does look good that low but messing around with ride hight's is not as simple as it my seem, without work to the inner arches and chassis I dont think this ride hight is achievable.

So I think if you have got 2" drop spindles then some stock ride hight springs should then give a 2" drop but will keep the steering geometry correct and so improve the handling and stop odd tyre ware, I think at best you will end up with the top of the tyre level with the bottom of the wing.

If I remember today I'll measure my swivels to see if they are the same as yours as I know mine are standard.

How have they lowered the rear, with blocks between the axle and spring?

I agree that your springs look way too short

in picture 2 above you can see the angle of the bottom wishbone is NOT level with the ground- look at the angle of the anti roll bar straining against the pivot!

I reckon you need std BB springs

I used Hotckiss to good effect- made Camilla sit higher but much more useable- I might have some springs knocking about.....................

_________________
Kind Regards
TopCat
Secretary
Classic Camaro Club
Member of The Association of American Car Clubs UK
Email :tboles@strathnoon.co.uk Websites: http://www.classiccamaroclubuk.com and:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdhLJtR_ZY4

The rear has 2" drop leaf springs I think, not blocks ill have another look before ordering parts

All I know is from the email from the shop that built it, its had a 2" drop all round and full cpp big block suspension kit up front,

At stock height should the car sit level? Or lower at the front like mine?

OK the swivels are 7" from top face to bottom and the centre of the stub axle is 1 1/2" up from the bottom of the swivel, so looking at yours they look standard.

Next your disc's are not standard, they sit more inboard than normal so your can't use longer lower ball joints.

The distance from the base of the chassis to the lower control are is 4" on my car and with a 25.5" dia tyre on a 15" by 9" rim with a 4" back space there is just enough room for it not to touch the inner arch, the control arm is sat a little high at the inner/bolt end at 9.5" and the outer?ball joint end at 9" so I think I need a lower profile tyre to get the measurements the same for me.

And another measurement I took was the distance between the top of the tyre and the fender which was 1.5" between the two.