The Camaro Club (UK)

Just bought a diff gasket for my 99 Z28 M6 as I fancy changing the diff oil seeing as the rest has been done. Kinda hoping its the right one.

What year Camaro had the same 10 bolt rear end? I`m guessing the 93-97 LT1 engined cars have the same rear end (internals and gearing aside) as the 98-02s? The net is full of conflicting info.

Cheers

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"Main Force Patrol we,re out of the game "

Does Jegs or Summit website help with a vehicle search.. ?

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“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.”

Thanks, I`ll try that. Changing my huge sig pic here.

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"Main Force Patrol we,re out of the game "

Na later cars have a different diff but they might have the same gasket, not sure.

My advice, don't take the cover off. Use a syringe and some tube and syphon the old oil out and put the new stuff in + GM Diff Additive, very important that bit.

You know what Dunc. I had thought of that. I had actually went and got a big syringe and pipe but figured I would get out most of the oil so bought a gasket to let it all out. Whats the deal with taking the cover off. Does it leak or what? I`ve got the diff additive anyway even though i`ve read it`s not necessary for a Torsen diff. It`ll do no harm so its going in anyway

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"Main Force Patrol we,re out of the game "

You have to make sure you get all of the old gasket of the casings as it tends to stick to them. Sometimes getting them to seal can be a problem. You should be ok though. Getting the oil back in through the little hole at the top of the cover is fun, not!

right guys, my advice would be to take gasket off, entirely and make an RTV sealent new one. I rebuilt my diff and did this, no leaks, way better than a crappy paper gasket.

93-02 are same diff housing, brakes are different as is the differential unit

98-02 cars LS1 - do not require additive with the ZEXEL torsen diff, it is not an LSD it is a posi traction torque biasing diff - the aditive will help reduce something called the 'rusty screq' problem where the diff can squeak or rattle sometimes, i've never had this so cannot comment. i've used redline shock oil in mine, but then you read some reccoment and some dont as it reduced the gear friction also - not idea, it works in mine so i;m happy

Finally, on the diff cover there is a magnet, hence I recommend taking the cover off to get all the fine bits of metal crap off and wiped out. You'll have fun putting oil back in and it WILL go down your arm

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'99 Z28 A4, 253 LS2 heads, 228R TSP cam, Patriol Dual Springs, Double roller timing chain, LS6 ported oil pump, OBX LTs, 3" True Duals, LS6 intake, 42lb/hr injectors, SLP lid + bellow, EFIlive COS 3 Speed Denisty Tune (self tuned), 3200 Circle D stall, CAI mod, KYB AGXs, Eibach Pro Front Springs, UMI panhard, LCA + Brackets, Strut Brace, Custom Subframe connectors, WS6 axle with 3.42s, 18" American Racing Rebels, US mirrors, 93 tail lights, 3.5 inch custom cowl hood. Mickey T's Street DRs on Vette-ZR1 wheels for the strip !
Best ET: 12.0 @ 116 mph (on a 0-60ft of 1.8 s)

Ok guys. Diff oil changed. No dramas at all. Anti roll bar was taken out of the way and the bolts came off by hand after the initial crack of the ratchet. Oil was left to drain while I had a brew. Here`s a pic or two I took. Differential looks clean and unmarked. Don`t know what the number is.




Also the cover looked fine. Is this the magnet? The round thing? There was nothing on it.





Gasket was used and sealant. All the old gunk was stanley knived off and a quick sand with emery paper.

I used 75w90 and this stuff (figured it would do no harm)



Rear end absolutely quiet as a church mouse.

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"Main Force Patrol we,re out of the game "

Summit has a year, make and model search for parts.
Jegs I don´t know, their shipping is too expensive so I don´t use them.