The Camaro Club (UK)

id like to strip my camaro back to bare all over by having it shot blasted then would etch prime it and get it sprayed up.
have heard issues with chemical dipping as some have had problems later on with the paint getting messed up.

did a bike a few years back and had the whole bike shot blasted n etch primed and then powder coated and sprayed parts and never had any issues with it rusting

sorry my mistake... i didn't mean dip as in chemically acid dip to strip, i've heard lots of issues with that too. I meant to say that they dip it in e-coat or however they get the e-coat on there as it's technically plating the car vs. spray painting so you get excellent adhesion and corrosion protection... with spraying you always have the chance of moisture, micro specs of dust etc creating a barrier. If you have access to a top notch paint booth with refrigerated air, downdraft etc it will get you a damn good finish for sure, i just feel more comfortable with keeping the e-coat. It's some tough stuff too, chemical stripper won't touch e-coat but it will pull off etch. I'm not sure what the warranties are, but i think factory coatings have a much longer warranty than refinish paints so ye lol, i'm an e-coat fan apparently If you do it either way prep it right for etch etc it will def last a long time and hold up a great finish

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Thanks chaps. I couldnt have removed the paint just back to the factory primer. Reckon I'd have been there a month!

Been a long day Started stripping the body down to bare metal at 730 this morning. Started with the door shuts and finished off with the main panels. Still have a few bits left to do, but 95% of it is done now. Bits left are the windscreen recess, the cowl panel and a couple of bits on the rockers. Just ran out of time (just finished), but its now mostly in epoxy, and ready for filling and more epoxy. The other bits can be done as and when.

Didn't find any nasty suprises under the old paint, just a couple of small pinholes that were easy enough to fix. Reckon there was about 15 layers of paint on the car. Not easy to strip it off at all. Ended up using some of these things:

http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i35 ... nStrip.jpg

Really good, but still time consuming.











I've also prepped both door frames ready to fit the new skins, but haven't done it yet. Want to get the body completely primed and the bulk of the filler done before moving on to the doors.

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

Thats looking ace did you not fancy using paint stripper (a bit shxxxy but gets paint off pretty quicker ) the stripping discs can work out quite dear .You have got this well sorted and the apoxy will keep the damp off the steel nice one Cheers Neil P.S. I also had to strip about 15 layer of paint ,what are people are thinking of stacking paint like that ,never a good idea

Blimey you got through that quick!! I used those discs when i stripped the interior sheetmetal and they are good. Minimal heat, you do get a nice black smoke effect in the air of the garage though as the material breaks down I must have gone through between 5 to 10 of them.

I used Panther paint stripper from Toolstation (heard that nitromors has got pretty weak as time has gone on due to compliance needs). They do a 1 litre and 4 litre, worth getting the 4 litre if you're doing a car. Works damn quick, especially if you put a large blob on. They tell you to brush on, but i poured straight out of the container that way you get a lot of stuff on the surface in several places and by the time you spread it out with a brush it's already bubbling away.

You made some great progress there having stripped and epoxied it all in one day! I wish i could work that fast

So what's next, flat sand and fill?

p.s glad you got the doors sorted (well, found at least)

Cheers!

Ray

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How to post pics: When writing a message, scroll down and use the "attach file" option. Where possible, a photo sharing service can be used such as Flickr, Imgur etc. The image location (usually ending in .jpg) can be copy and pasted between the ][ brackets that appear when you click the 'Img' button (you can find this button at the top of the message box).

How to post youtube vids: Click on the 'youtubeHD' button at the top of the message box and in the middle of the ][ brackets that just appeared, copy and paste everything from the youtube web address that appears after the = sign i.e if this is the url: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2cNqaPSHv0 just copy "K2cNqaPSHv0").

Well, it took 12 hours to strip to bare metal and mask, then about 30 mins to epoxy it with 2 coats

There's still a few bits left to strip and epoxy, the top and sides of the cowl, the underside of the drivers side sill and the front screen recess. After that it's sand, fill and repeat until flat, which may take a while....

Then theres the front wing, front and rear bumpers and bonnet...

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

Been working away on the car during the week, and making slow but steady progress. Booked next week of work to have a bit of a blitz on getting the bodywork sorted.

Block sanded the whole shell again, getting there with it now, a few areas still need attention. Took most of the day to get it all done.

The new LH rear spoiler corner arrived from the USA on Weds so I thought I'd drill some holes in my nice quarters Only had to elongate one to get enough adjustment so it all lined up. Quite pleased with how it turned out for only 30 mins messing around, seen them a lot worse





After I'd finished sanding, I thought I'd have a go at skinning one of the doors. Didn't turn out too bad for a first attempt. Got a few dolly marks in the skin, but wasn't too bad. Hopefully the next one will turn out better. Going to get the inside in epoxy primer tomorrow morning then I can make a start on the other door, then start putting it together on Monday

_________________
My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

Thats looking the dogs a weeks graft on the body and you should realy be heading towards the the finishing line then on to the good bit bolting it all back togeather .Cheers Neil

Thanks

Another couple of days work on the bodywork. Primered the inside of the door, trunk lid and spolier centre section yesterday





Spent today finishing off a few bits of filler and finished with a final coat of epoxy all over, including the cowl panels this time. Also prepped and primed the spoiler side pieces. More sanding tomorrow it seems

Longest job today was getting the trunk lid fit right. Fairly happy with it now.

_________________
My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

Spent a good portion of today fitting the deck filler panel. The pattern replacement didn't fit too well, and needed some beating and twisting into shape then finishing off with filler.

Slight change of colour today, Green-Ti filler primer. Forgot how thick that stuff is

Hopefully get it blocked properly tomorrow morning. Having the air DA and the big ol' compressor has been a real godsend throughout the prep work. It's saved so much time and sweat All this prep could go on forever, I know there's a couple more bits low down on the rear quarters which might still need some attention even after the Green-Ti. That'll be another job for tomorrow. Should be able to get the drivers door on tomorrow as well.

_________________
My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.