The Camaro Club (UK)

sweet! look forward to seeing how you repair the skin. Must be mighty tempting to remove the massive steel bar and replace it with some roll cage tubing and save some weight

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Now the chop's done it's about time I got on with this again I guess.

The last bit of the main body shell that needed sorting was the trunk hinge panel. There was nothing much left of it under a few layers of silicone sealer and paint I set about cutting it out and making good what lurked beneath. The supporting structure was well rotten on the left hand side and I patched it up enough to make it good. Scraped all the old loose paint off and gave it a coat of Jotun



The new panel came from Auto Metal Direct and was a pretty good fit...other than I had to cut it in half to get it in the hole It threads in under all the other panels, and due to iits shape there was no way it was going in in one piece

Popped it in and spot welded it up. Hope the back window still fits



Other than re skinning the doors and some minor repairs to the front wings, thats about all the sheet metal work done. Next weekend I might make a start on stripping the dozen or so layers of paint off it and putting the first coat of epoxy primer on.

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

blimey its an "all original" camaro now wonder how much it would cost to buy a stack of new panels and jig it all up for a new shell

Think the new shells are about £12k....

Thinking about going back to the original colour....

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

Finally made a start on stripping the old paint and applying some epoxy primer. Started with the back panel. Took about 3 hours to strip to bare metal, fiddly job....

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

It's slowly turning one colour again! Need to get the trunk hinges back on then I can strip the rest of the body down.

Did a 250 mile round trip today to pick up a driver side door. The frame is really solid, skin has a scrape/dent, but no problem as I have a new skin anyway. Got tomorrow off work, so hopefully will get a little more done on the doors....

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

That´s an excellent solid colour suits the car.
I had one in lame white, showed every smudge.

THAT`S dedication right there.

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"Main Force Patrol we,re out of the game "

Thanks chaps. Turned out to be an expensive door, but at least it's useable, the old one is shot. Oh well, it'll return some cash at the scrappy!

Stripped the skin off the new one today, not at all bad under there at all.Just light surface rust and some small holes in the bottom. Nothing that can't be fixed in a couple of hours.

Debating having the door shells blasted before painting, but I think it may be another unnecessary expense really as neither are very bad at all.

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My '80 progress thread - hugger orange! Now with LQ9 power - forged pistons, LS2 rods, 236/242, .621/.612, flowed and milled 317 heads. MS3X

4L80e, 12 bolt, 4.11, Moroso brute strength posi, steel shafts.

Subframe connectors, g-braces, solid body bushes, carbon hood and front bumper, custom door cards, Autometer gauges.

I stripped my pass door over the weekend with chemical stripper as it had 1x respray on there. Now down to the factor colour that will get 120'd so probably end up with the factory primer finish. I'm not a fan of sand blasting anymore as you lose the factory e-coat which is pretty much impossible to get the quality of coating / protection back without going back to the factory (i heard that Porsche now allow a rebuilder to send in a stripped Porsche body and they will dip it to the standards of a new car, mental! Of course, they charge a few quid ). I would probably say that unless it's already got loads of rust spots and filler repairs with surface rust etc, maybe just d.a it back to factory? Of course, your car and project, so your call, just a thought Any pics of the new door? Cheers! Ray

_________________
How to post pics: When writing a message, scroll down and use the "attach file" option. Where possible, a photo sharing service can be used such as Flickr, Imgur etc. The image location (usually ending in .jpg) can be copy and pasted between the ][ brackets that appear when you click the 'Img' button (you can find this button at the top of the message box).

How to post youtube vids: Click on the 'youtubeHD' button at the top of the message box and in the middle of the ][ brackets that just appeared, copy and paste everything from the youtube web address that appears after the = sign i.e if this is the url: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2cNqaPSHv0 just copy "K2cNqaPSHv0").