The Camaro Club (UK)

Cheers Neil,

Ye as you can tell i'm just trying to not make the same mistake twice Thanks for the advice, i will be very diligent about following the ratios and times. Will go back to the paint shop next week and start getting the car ready in the meantime. When you said "I have also been told not to put on so many coats and ive had no problems ,you need plenty of paint on to flatt off properly" did you mean that you've put more than 2 layers on? Ideally i would like 4 on there, i don't like the thought of 2 coats and then flatting back!

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Hi Ray yes i also have put 4/5 coats on to flat and polish no probs hope this helps Dont forget measure paint activator and thinner out accurately Cheers Neil

Nice one thanks

Ye i've got the paint mixing cups which i could not live without. my gun holds about 550ml so on the 3:2:1 mixing ratio i use 75ml thinner, 150ml hardener, 225ml paint, giving me a nice 450ml cup full.

Great tip on pouring out the paint into another tin - i'll ask the paint shop for an empty one when i pik up the paint.

You'll find this interesting - i was 600ing the hood this evening and found a run that i totally forgot about - due to space the hood was upright when painting and i have an L88 hood so with all the extra curves i got an excess run and thought i was god enough to blow it out with air pressure. it didnt turn out too nice obviosuly and so when i razor blade cut it back earlier wouldnt you know it - those rings appeared, with the purpleish outline! so this made me think it had to be a combo of either incorrect flash off time, or too heavy paint. As you can see above i followed the mixing ration pretty well, so i'm ruling out too much thinner (could be wrong of course) and replacing that idea with too heavy of a coat. I did get those "breakouts" all over the hood, some areas not at all, some areas more so. so before i paint i'm trying to nail down exactly what i did wrong as it's only a couple of possibilites now:

incorrect flash off
too much paint per coat

I wonder, you mentioned about fast hardener - how does this play into the thought of incorrect flash off time - will it help? should i be trying to get as fast a hardener as i can? I was on the thinking that you would want slower hardener so that when you apply the next coat, it's still going to bond. What do you reckon?

I'm thinking of doing thinner coats now, adjusting the gun for less flow and about 40-45 psi pressure and a standard fan pattern. I'm thinking of masking off the front half of the car so i can do the back in about 10 minutes and observe a good flash off time that way, assuming from memory that it took about 5 / 10 minutes to get around that part of the car.

Thanks for your help so far!! nearly there

p.s polisher arrived today, bloody quick delivery! and tried out what the PPG guy recomended as a just in case, but it didnt work. i have a really nice looking half of a door panel though, a nice bit of inspiration annoyingly you can't see these faults from more than about 4 feet away, so could almost get away with it

pps would have taken pics but had the camera and left the memory card in the house

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Hi Ray my wife thinks im on a dating site (HOPES I AM )then she said knowing me as she dose i wouldnt spend that much time talking to a woman unless it was abought cars Now back to your car you say your 2kpaint is 3-2-1 mixing ratio ? most 2k i have sprayed is 2paint 1 activator &10percent thinner so i would do a double check on your data sheet.Also i use what is called a super cup it has all ratios req 2:1 - 3:1 - 4:1 and a measure up the side it also holds 2ltrs when full saves a lot of chew when mixing (less mixing time)also re useable get a few .Also just down to preference i would spray your bonnette on the car,just think the paint lays better (more important with mettalics base coat or pearls ). Also the fast hardener helps the curing time of the paint in colder conditions i would allways use fast hardener when spraying in a garage (air drying paint as not in a heated booth ).Especialy this time of the year being colder it won,t efect your flash off time .Do you not feel happy enough with painting the full car in one it will save double masking ,also are you not d.a.ing the car the paint should be hard enough and it will save a lot of time ??? Hope this helps .You dont half make me work (its more work on the 4kin laptop) for this old timer than in the garage no probs mate Cheers Neil . P.S what type of polisher did you get? . :thumbup:P.P.S I could get you the address for the discs iff req . Just put some different thoughts abought your paint,but i managed to put it on my post on page 2, read the end abought just reread Niges post (if that makes sence )TOLD YOU THIS WAS HARD WORK FOR ME but getting easyer i think

Hi Ray just woundered if you read my last reply ??????Cheers Neil replys

hey Neil!

Yes i did get your reply thanks Sorry i was away with work so hardly any internet access and only had a few days last week to catch up.

Okey dokey so thank you for the advice! I checked with the data sheet on your point about the thinner (everyhwere else also says 10%!!!) and also with the paint factors and this is what the data sheet says:

EHS Turbo Plus P498-, P494- 3 parts
EHS Turbo Plus Hardeners 2 parts
P210-982/-983
EHS Turbo Plus 1 part Thinner P852-179*

This is a general descrpition of the product:

EHS Turbo Plus is a versatile 2-pack acrylic paint system designed exclusively for painting commercial vehicles.
EHS Turbo Plus gives a finish of outstanding gloss and durability, which fully meets the highest standards
demanded by fleet operators today.

And here are the general bits about the product:

Pot Life at 20°C : 2 hours
Clean gun immediately after use
NOTE: To remain compliant DO NOT add extra thinner

2 single coats
50-75 microns (2.0-3.0 thou)

10 -15 minutes minimum between coats

Air dry (20°C) :
Dust free 40-60 mins
Handleable 8 hours
Recoat : 16 hours
Into-Service : 16 hours

COLOUR MIXING
All pigmented paint products should be thoroughly hand-stirred when opened. In addition mixing basics
should be stirred for 10 minutes by machine before use. Thereafter mixing basics should be machine
stirred twice a day for a maximum of 10 minutes each time.

So by the end of this, you'll be good at typing and i'll be good at paint lol

I have some of those mixing cups but the markings are really strange. I'll take a pic as it has the 321 ratios but the lines don't add up. I start from the "1 part" and work my way up i.e I take (1 part) 80ml of thinner, add 160ml (2 parts) of hardener, then add 240ml (3parts) of paint. This should give me the 321 ratio and 480mll of paints (pretty much fills the paint gun to the brim. Will be using the Devilbiss gun this time. It's suction fed but i think it's a tad bit better than the sealey gravity fed i've been using, considering the air cap alone on the devilbiss is twice the price of the the entire sealey gun lol.

As for the spraying, the bonnet is onthe car now - the whole thing is together now and i'm masking it all off so this should help

Regarding the masking off of the car - i was a little worried yes - i want to keep a wet edge but i think after watching more and more video's now i think i can get around the car in about 5 or so minutes and have spotted some nice techniques in jumping around different parts of the car to ensure an panel edge is kept roughly wet. Nige also showed me a couple of good techniques a little while ago when i visited him so i'm setup to do the whole thing at once. Just hope there is enough paint in the gun to last a full tour of it

If the weather gets above 10 degrees outside i can get the garage up to about 17/18 so should be able to paint in the next week or so as it's prepped now. For the Polisher, i went for a Kestrel Sim 180 which is a 6 speed 800-3,000 rpm standard polisher. I couldn't find a DA that was a reasonable price but i've read good things about polising DA's so maybe on the next one. Thanks for the advice though, i've seen them used before and they do very well. This polisher had good reviews and price was under £80 so it fit the bill for the little use i'll be making it do.

Thanks for your advice and sorry for making you write so much!! short andswers are welcome to save you the pain lol.

p.s both PPG reps i spoke to have never seen this before! i think it's too heavy coats because this happened in places that had runs - i.e razor blade the run back and the surface would have that issue there, even if you didnt sand it yet. so it must all be down to technique. live and learn

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Hi Ray, how's it going?? Glad to see you're getting back to the point of painting the car. I see you're concerned about temperature which is correct, but also be aware that humidity/dampness/air water content can also play a part. Get yourself a cheap hygrometer that measures humidity. It's always best to spray in conditions that show less than 50% moisture content in the air. 50% being the maximum I'd feel comfortable to paint in without getting any problems. The lower the %, the less likely you are to trap moisture in the paint that can cause micro blistering at a later date. hth

cheers...Nige

ps you txt'd my old phone, didn't I send you my new number lol?

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Too much power...not enough hands!!

Hey Nige,

Going ok thanks! and you? Yes nearly there, it's all setup now, just a final couple of bits of masking left to do. Good shout on the humidty, i have a barmoter thingy somewhere so i'll dig that out and see what the deal is. I have a couple of fan heaters in there so that should help dry the air a bit. Worst case i guess i can put the dehumidifier in there for a couple of hours before painting. struggling to get the temp more than a couple of degrees above outside temp so lookin at places like HSS hire to see if can rent a spacve heater or something for the weekend.

Thanks for the advice, always does help

Cheers!

Ray

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Don't hire a gas heater as they pump out moisture into the atmosphere

cheers...Nige

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Too much power...not enough hands!!

Good shout thanks

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