The Camaro Club (UK)

As you can tell from all the recent questions, we're getting close!

Battery is ordered (thanks Stu for the tech help) and thinking about the wiring for the fuel pump. It was run under the car before and now i'm redoing it to run with the main loom. The +12v was joined in some random place in the engine bay, then i changed it to run from a spare outlet in the fuse block. Reading through the instruction manual, i'm a bit confused:
The very last sentence... i think i understand after reading a few times, it's saying that you can't do it the way i have it (running via accessory terminal on fuse block) as that doesn't have power when the key is in the ignition position i.e when the starter is running. Accessory loses power so then you would lose fuel pressure.

It's saying that you need to have power during starter and run. Apparently the oil pressure switch has power during both? I am planning on running through a relay, so i can take signal wire from the oil pressure gauge if that would work? Not sure what else can be accessed that has power both when the starter is on AND the engine is running?

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Right, i've got the 4 page schematic out. Hopefully i'm reading this correctly...

It says (referring to the position of the key) that these circuits are active when the key is in the position of:
Off: open
Start: GRD 1, GRD2, GRD 3, IGN 1, BAT 1, SOL
Run: IGN 1, IGN 3, BAT 1, BAT 2, BAT 3, ACC
ACC: ACC, BAT 2

Those are the labels of the engine side of the big terminal block. Then on the other side, you have the fuse block in the footwell. It looks like the the two that overlap in positions, are IGN 1 and BAT 1. So i'm guessing that means that those 2 wires are active in both positions. On the fuse diagram, BAT 1 is a blank connection, so that leaves only IGN 1 as a connection. This is fused and supplies power to the gauges and following the diagram, goes to the dizzy. In the fuse box, it also shows that IGN 1 has an empty spade post so i guess i can plug in a spade connector and use that as a signal wire to the relay to tell it to turn the fuel pump on when the key is in run position and start position. Clear as mud.

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I am more lost than you regarding ignition wiring, and associated stuff.. but I wouldn't worry too much about fuel pressure from a tiny bit less current on start up, as the carb only needs about 6psi, which I assume is way less than the pump will put out...


I know it's no help at all, but on the kit car the fans and fuel pump come on at the first twist of the key, before the starter... no idea if this is needed or possible on yours.


(any reason you stayed with the electric pump, other than it was there already, rather than fitted a standard mechanical one for simplicity ? )

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“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.”

I'm gonna pop out with a volt meter tomorrow / saturday and see which connection gives voltage at both run and start (got today and tomorrow off to work on the car, but finishing off the paint stuff first as that's been the barrier to getting the glass, trim etc. installed.)
Good question and one i have never really thought about! The answer is that the electric pump was already there, wired and plumbed in so went with what was there.

I've never thought about the difference in having electrical vs. mechanical. Is there much difference / benefit / pros and cons? I'm wondering now why people fit electrical ones... is it because it was hard to get hold of mechanical ones at some point?

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I thought the mechanical were seen as pretty reliable. Maybe people with big power need the extra flow of a electric one, and maybe there is some power draw to run the mechanical one, so there could be some free power benefits....maybe.
Mechanical ones are pretty cheap and easy to work on, as very accessible... I guess they wear out eventually like most things.

As you say, no reason to not use the one you have though if it's there already...

Good luck with the paint...

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“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.”

I guess the extra fuel flow may have been the reason. It looked like the guy was looking to build a dragster, with the big back wheels, air shocks etc. It also has a different engine from stock as it was 6 cylinder from the factory, so they may not have had all the bits needed to change it over.

Good news is that it seems to work now it's all wired up. Took a signal wire from the Ignition circuit and ran it to a relay which powers it up. That's 1 thing ticked off the endless list!

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