The Camaro Club (UK)
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primer.
http://classiccamaroclub.mfatw.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3440		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  nightwolf70 [Tue Oct 01, 2013 7:33 pm ]
Post subject:  primer.
I bought myself some etch primer and thinners last week but im not sure what kind of paint it is! Cellulose or 1k/2k etc. Can anyone help? Dont wanna suffer any reactions!

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cheers
Author:  78 Camaro [Wed Oct 02, 2013 12:06 am ]
Post subject:  Re: primer.
hmm :think:

Me thinks 1k because the mixing ratio is thinner : etch. 2k etch would be 1:1 (activator : etch) and no thinner. 2 other things caught my eye. It appears to be in a metal based container, so it won't contain any etching chemicals otherwise it would etch itself to the container. Etch activator usually comes in a plastic bottle as it is slightly acidic. The second thing that caught my eye was that it says it's for non-ferrous metals, i.e aluminium. Mild steel is usually 99% iron content so this is should be ok for aluminium / plastic / GRP etc but not for bare steel.

Just my observations, i'm sure you'll get a few more thoughts from the more experienced guys on here.

Cheers!
Author:  evilzee28 [Wed Oct 02, 2013 9:03 am ]
Post subject:  Re: primer.
Hi, it's a 1K etch primer & I would guess the activator, as Ray says should smell acidic. Contact them here http://www.192.com/atoz/business/bradfo ... 745c65/ml/

ask them for a data sheet & if you have any queries ask them to answer them hth

cheers...Nige
Author:  nightwolf70 [Wed Oct 02, 2013 11:09 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: primer.
Quote:
hmm :think:

Me thinks 1k because the mixing ratio is thinner : etch. 2k etch would be 1:1 (activator : etch) and no thinner. 2 other things caught my eye. It appears to be in a metal based container, so it won't contain any etching chemicals otherwise it would etch itself to the container. Etch activator usually comes in a plastic bottle as it is slightly acidic. The second thing that caught my eye was that it says it's for non-ferrous metals, i.e aluminium. Mild steel is usually 99% iron content so this is should be ok for aluminium / plastic / GRP etc but not for bare steel.

Just my observations, i'm sure you'll get a few more thoughts from the more experienced guys on here.

Cheers!
well spotted mate, that slipped past me! Thats what I get for not researching properly!! Im surprised the guy in the shop didnt ask, I guess he was just after the cash... I intend to sand back anyway when I come to final paint. Will this hold up in the mean time or is it a nono? Cheers guys.
Author:  flak monkey [Thu Oct 03, 2013 7:34 am ]
Post subject:  Re: primer.
Etch is old skool these days. Go for something like Lechler 29107 epoxy which is compatible with most top coats and it's Isocyanate free. It also doesn't absorb moisture from the atmosphere like normal primers, so safe to leave your car in it indefinitely. Also sticks to everything better than etch, and can be used as a sealer (is compatible with most old/unknown substrates).
Author:  nightwolf70 [Thu Oct 03, 2013 11:09 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: primer.
Quote:
Etch is old skool these days. Go for something like Lechler 29107 epoxy which is compatible with most top coats and it's Isocyanate free. It also doesn't absorb moisture from the atmosphere like normal primers, so safe to leave your car in it indefinitely. Also sticks to everything better than etch, and can be used as a sealer (is compatible with most old/unknown substrates).

your probably right. I'll look into it, thanks.
Author:  firebird68 [Thu Oct 17, 2013 10:54 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: primer.
Quote:
Etch is old skool these days. Go for something like Lechler 29107 epoxy which is compatible with most top coats and it's Isocyanate free. It also doesn't absorb moisture from the atmosphere like normal primers, so safe to leave your car in it indefinitely. Also sticks to everything better than etch, and can be used as a sealer (is compatible with most old/unknown substrates).
Just started painting my body-shell with Lechler 7012 epoxy primer.
Very impressed with it, easy to spray with a small lvlp gun.
The finish is almost 'good to go' semi satin low semi gloss
I'm nor really into the rat look but you could do a really cool looking Two Lane Blacktop style ride using this waterproof primer, also would suite any '60s or '70s pickup 8-)
They also tint this primer so you can go light or dark , mine is a dark slate gray, looking good so far.
Best primer I ever used by far.
Author:  78 Camaro [Thu Jan 23, 2014 7:11 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: primer.
I actually had a bad experience with lechler epoxy. Painted the door and fender with it over the summer so was relatively good weather, left it for a week, came back to scuff it up so that i could apply a skim of filler but as i was scuffing it, when it sanded through to the metal, it started peeling off in pieces. Nige recommended getting some heat on there and leaving it for a while longer, so i put a radiant heater on it and left it for another week, nothing changed. I moved the fender around the other week (so it's been a good 6 months) and i could pull it off, it wasn't really stuck to the metal in places, it literally lifted off as if you have put cling film on the metal. Except for cling film would have stuck better. So no sure what happened there, maybe it was a bad batch or something. That's why i'm keen on the initial layer being etch now (used lechler etch and that didn't have the same issue), as it contains acids that eat into the metal for adhesion, vs. relying on mechanical grip. Not sure sure what went wrong, maybe it was just a one off, hope so!
Author:  Rocky [Wed Feb 19, 2014 10:31 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: primer.
I only use Glasurit Epoxy we found it's the best you can get.
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