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PostPosted:Sun Apr 11, 2010 3:53 pm 
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Big Block
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Joined:Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:40 pm
Posts:3245
Car Details:'79 Camaro, 350 V8
Location:South Bucks
Hello all,
I was getting geared up to remove this dent, when i heard that the metal is actually part of the chasis, so i'm better off fabricating some sheet metal to weld over it. previous owners had attempted to hammer out the dent from above by drilling a couple of holes in the sills, placing a metal rod through and hammering it but this ended up just making a couple of round pressure points that you can sort of see in the pic on the left dent.
What are you guys thoughts on how to deal with this one?
Cheers!
Ray


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can this dent be removed?

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PostPosted:Sun Apr 11, 2010 9:52 pm 
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Small Block

Joined:Tue Dec 22, 2009 8:41 pm
Posts:15
Car Details:1978 camaro z28- undergoing full restoration and custom work , impreza wrx, mach1 motorsport, hayabusa, k6 gixxer 1000 and a vectra cdti daily hack
Location:west midlands
Hi Ray, i beleive these sill panels are available as my passenger side one has been replaced at some point by the previous owner prior to me buying it, might be worth contacting Jamie at chevymotors to see how much? regards Linden


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PostPosted:Mon Apr 12, 2010 9:57 am 
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Big Block
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As Linden says i'd fit a new sill if you can get one at a reasonable price, they're straight forward enough to fit. If you can't get a sill for it easilyy, I'd take measurements of the sill & get a local sheetmetal company to fold up an outer skin for it. Shouldn't be too difficult as the outer face of the sill is virtually flat. Still better to fit new though :thumbup:

cheers...Nige

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PostPosted:Tue Apr 13, 2010 2:13 pm 
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Big Block
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Joined:Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:40 pm
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Car Details:'79 Camaro, 350 V8
Location:South Bucks
Thanks guys,

Gave Jamie a shout and he quoted £95 per side (both are damaged, other side not as bad). So for the price of it, makes sense to do it this way. Will give it another check tonight to see if they both need replacing, will let ya know!

Cheers,

Ray

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PostPosted:Wed Apr 14, 2010 10:01 am 
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Big Block
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Joined:Fri Mar 19, 2010 1:35 am
Posts:2566
Car Details:79' camaro road & track day toy. 383 stroker, 5 speed TKO trans, lots of suspension stuff, 13" Vette brakes, 18" wheels.
Location:Luton
I bought an outer sill from DB motors at the end of last year, was about £80 I think.. Had a to wait a couple of weeks for it though...

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PostPosted:Wed Apr 14, 2010 2:47 pm 
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Small Block

Joined:Wed Mar 10, 2010 11:01 pm
Posts:23
Car Details:1987 IROC Z28 T-Tops 305 V8....

B&m ratchet shifter....
weld a piece of metal along the main crease line of the dent or several small pieces at the low points then use a slide hammer to pull the dent out, with a bit of patience you should get it back


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PostPosted:Wed Apr 14, 2010 6:19 pm 
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Big Block
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Joined:Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:40 pm
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Car Details:'79 Camaro, 350 V8
Location:South Bucks
Thanks 10mpg.. i bought a slide hammer thinking of doing that. I found a neat way of doing a new school method of slife hammering, basically instead of screwing in the nails you just use a stud welder to spot weld on the screws, then hammer them out. unfortunately stud welders here are abit expensive, £220's the cheapest i could find so i'm gonna attempt spot welding the screws and trying to see how that works out. I've got some sheet metal alternatively so if all else fails :)

Thanks!

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PostPosted:Thu Apr 15, 2010 11:22 am 
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Big Block
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If you are going the slide hammer route, don't try to pull the dent out in a couple of goes. Weld your studs about an inch or so apart, in the lowest part of the crease & then slowly work your way along them, repeating the process a number of times. This will enable the dents to come out more smoothly than if you just give it some "heave ho" tugs in one place, which would leave the metal distorted in "high peaks".

cheers....Nige

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PostPosted:Thu Apr 15, 2010 12:17 pm 
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Big Block
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Joined:Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:40 pm
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Car Details:'79 Camaro, 350 V8
Location:South Bucks
Thanks Nige,
I'm just about to head into the garage so your advice came through at the right time!
On another note, just got my lead loading kit through the post, after seeing the bad body filler repairs which still rusted underneath, thought this is the best route to take!
Cheers and pics up later :)

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PostPosted:Thu Apr 15, 2010 4:35 pm 
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Big Block
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Joined:Mon Feb 09, 2009 12:41 pm
Posts:2451
Quote:
Thanks Nige,
I'm just about to head into the garage so your advice came through at the right time!
On another note, just got my lead loading kit through the post, after seeing the bad body filler repairs which still rusted underneath, thought this is the best route to take!
Cheers and pics up later :)
Did you get the book on lead loading too?? It's relatively straight forward to do though. Once completed it's nescessary to make sure that all traces of flux have been removed from the repair or it will affect the repairs in the future. Wash the repair down liberaly with panel wipe/thinners & then some fresh soapy water & dry immediately.

It's really quite easy to do & I find it very therapeutic you can get kits that contain everything you need to do this from people like Frosts restoration equipment. A bit of time & patience & it's easily mastered. The beauty is that moisture cannot penetrate the repairs from behind. it only takes one pin hole in a welded & filled repair & in time the moisture will get through the filler, this way it can't as all holes are filled with lead. Obviously it takes practice, especially on a vertical panel where the lead tries to fall off as it's being warmed up but it's do-able for the hobbyist.

I think I put something about lead loading in the evilzee build thread. Best of luck :thumbup:

cheers ...Nige

ps Found it, here's the link that might help a bit

http://www.classiccamaroclubuk.com/phpB ... a&start=70

If you need any advice let me know & I'll try to help as obviously the build thread article is just a brief synopsis of whats involved :thumbup:

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