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PostPosted:Wed Mar 09, 2011 8:19 pm 
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Big Block
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Joined:Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:40 pm
Posts:3245
Car Details:'79 Camaro, 350 V8
Location:South Bucks
haha if only i smoked i could parody it :)

So the ebay item arrived today, it is a harmonic balancer / puller combo. the holes in the hub are waaaayyyy too small even for the 5/16 bolt that came with it, the holes are about the size of nail that you would use to hang a picture frame. wtf. so i ended up drilling 2x 5/16 holes into the hub and it worked just the like the stoner dudes video. I was happy for about 30 seconds, then pulled off the plastic cover to reveal a metal round plate. i have no clue how to take this one off. it seems to be wedged in from behind the main bolt. how in the world?! anyone removed this before? just want to get to the 1 horn wire :( this may just be worse of a an effort : reward ratio than the headliner! i've seen chopped horn wires before, but you can usually see the wire just sat there shoved in, whoever did this, had something really against this wire being visible :(

Any help much appreciated :crazy:

Thanks!!

Ray

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Re: Steering wheel removal question

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PostPosted:Thu Mar 10, 2011 12:56 am 
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Big Block
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Joined:Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:40 pm
Posts:3245
Car Details:'79 Camaro, 350 V8
Location:South Bucks
Ok so i worked it out, below is a guide as i have not come across an intact one on any of the forums. before i embark on this i have 1 question. As the car has an aftermarket steering wheel i need to hook up a wire for the horn switch. The standard system works on a rotating gyro that pushes in a sprung switch to create a connection, so no wires. Now with the aftermarket wheel, i need to add a wire and connect it to the centre cap. the cap connects with a pressure plate to the hub which connects to the shaft and gets a ground. i've tested with an ohmeter and it does get a signal path :) SO... how do i get a wire to go from a fixed position (the turn signal assembly) to connect to the centre cap of the steering wheel which will be rotating. there is a hole that a wire can go through, but my worry is that the wire will be wound as you steer, and snap / be unsafe. any ideas? Thanks!

Now for the guide:

1) make sure you have the below kit at hand. it serves 2 purposes. a) the bottom right item site above the steering wheel with the bolt resting on the steering column bolt. use the bolts from the top left to thread into the steering wheel hub, tighten to about 3 turns. then start turning the centre bolt clockwise and it will start pulling the hub towards you. after no more than an inch of travel the hub will come loose. pull it off.
Attachment:
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2) pull off the plastic cover. i pried it off with a flathead screwdriver. not sure what the proper way is.
Attachment:
IMG_0436.JPG
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3) now you can see the lock plate. you have to push this back by half an inch to be able to take off the C clip that holds the lock plate in place. so go back to the above kit and use the top right u shaped metal piece and the bolt from the bottom left. that bolt threads onto the column bolt, turn a few times for decent grip and balance. no place the U shaped piece over so that the legs touch the lock plate. add the bolt on, then as you start turning the bolt the lock plate will move backwards. you will see the C clip, pry it out with a thin flathead, remove the bolt and U piece, then slide the C clip off along with the lock clip.
Attachment:
IMG_0435.JPG
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4) unscrew the philips heads and remove the green horn contact (gyro as i call it, i believe this spins with the wheel eliminating the need or wiring.. correct me if i'm wrong though)
Attachment:
IMG_0434.JPG
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5) now you can access the turn signal assembly and key lock etc. the horn push button is the copper coloured piece on the right of the image.
Attachment:
IMG_0441.JPG
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Re-installation.

I think you will need to reverse the procedure. will let you know when i get to it :)

Cheers

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PostPosted:Thu Mar 10, 2011 11:39 am 
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Big Block
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Joined:Fri Sep 11, 2009 9:47 am
Posts:54
Car Details:86 IROC-Z 305 Manual
Location:Eastleigh
I should have replied to this thread earlier, I went through a similar trial the other week. I got away without a hub puller it just pulled off with a bit of force. I bought the same kit for the lock plate compressor though.

The horn wire goes down the little green tube and has a spring which keeps pressure on the contact. The green bit rotates with the wheel so there is no danger of any tangling.


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PostPosted:Thu Mar 10, 2011 12:40 pm 
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Big Block
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Ray, you're gonna end up being our tech guru for 2nd gens the way you're going :thumbup: :lol:

cheers....Nige

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PostPosted:Thu Mar 10, 2011 1:55 pm 
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Big Block
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Joined:Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:40 pm
Posts:3245
Car Details:'79 Camaro, 350 V8
Location:South Bucks
Haha cheers Nige, feels that way lol.

Dave, can i pick your brains a little bit about this please? i'm trying to work out how the sytem works... not having the original steering wheel im not sure how it should work. The way i understand it, with the standard wheel, it has a push rod that goes into that green plastic cases and pushes the rod in. this also makes me think, where is the ground coming from? is the push rod that is in the steering wheel grounded via the steering wheel case? i can't seem to work out how the ground is created in this. Also for the green sleeve, it seems to sit on top of the push rod that is connected to the siwtch wiring which is fixed and doesn't rotate. so i'm not sure how this works? Would you mind giving a bit of detailed step by step? not sure where to connect the wire etc? would appreciate any help as you've done this before. Also, how did you put it back together? funnily enough, i needed the tool to get the hub off, but not for the lock plate... i managed to push against it enough to have it hold in place while i unclipped the C clip :) What i ahve noticed is that the steering shaft (whith the bolt) can be pushed in a few inches... so im not sure how to put the steering wheel back on as if you hammer it (Which is how i thought it woudl go back) it would just push the shaft in. hope that made sense? appreciate your advice in advance!

Cheers,

Ray

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PostPosted:Fri Mar 11, 2011 9:22 am 
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Big Block
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Joined:Fri Sep 11, 2009 9:47 am
Posts:54
Car Details:86 IROC-Z 305 Manual
Location:Eastleigh
I need to replace my windscreen wiper switch this weekend and am doing the intermediate steering column too whilst I'm at it so will probably have the whole steering column out. I will try and remember to take lots of pictures and upload them on Saturday.

You're correct about the steering wheel/comlumn case supplying the ground. If you put a wire between the brass ring and any bit of steering column/chassis you should find the horn will sound. I've got an aftermarket wheel so the actual button mechanism may be a bit different.

To re fit the wheel I put it on the splines as far as I could then tightened the nut to it's specified torque.


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PostPosted:Fri Mar 11, 2011 11:27 am 
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Big Block
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Joined:Fri Mar 19, 2010 1:35 am
Posts:2566
Car Details:79' camaro road & track day toy. 383 stroker, 5 speed TKO trans, lots of suspension stuff, 13" Vette brakes, 18" wheels.
Location:Luton
Quote:
hm, this stoner dude has it:
Love his video...

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PostPosted:Fri Mar 11, 2011 9:47 pm 
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Big Block
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Joined:Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:40 pm
Posts:3245
Car Details:'79 Camaro, 350 V8
Location:South Bucks
lol i think most camaro's out in the states are owned by these types of "dudes". Explains why when we try and work on them we go "wtf happened here?!"

Love his closing line of "you need one of these tools, pain in the ass, but fuk dude, just return it after"

Here's a great resource on a '78 complete column restoration on a tilt wheel. may be useful if you want to tighten up a saggy tilt wheel:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3223935/1 ... let-camaro

Cheers!

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PostPosted:Sat Mar 12, 2011 6:52 pm 
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Big Block
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Joined:Fri Sep 11, 2009 9:47 am
Posts:54
Car Details:86 IROC-Z 305 Manual
Location:Eastleigh
Right, I have a couple of pictures which may hopefully be useful.
Image
Note the green tube goes through the hub, so when you turn the wheel the green disc has to rotate with it. The wire coming out of it goes to the horn push, which when pushed completes the circuit to earth.

The below picture shows the wire that goes in the plunger, the circled bit locks into the top of the tube, and then the spring keeps contact with the brass ring at the bottom of the tube.
Image


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PostPosted:Sun Mar 13, 2011 8:15 pm 
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Big Block
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Joined:Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:40 pm
Posts:3245
Car Details:'79 Camaro, 350 V8
Location:South Bucks
Cheers Dave,

All sorted now, top man :)

Because i hadn't had the original wheel i couldnt figure out what exactly should be going on, in order to modify it. I thought that the plunger at the back had to be pushed into make contact, based on the fact that it slide all the way in. It then made sense that it's sprung so that it can cater for different pressure from the green hub. I tried to find a plunger, loads in the U.S of A, none here, so i took the ring off the green wheel, soldered a wire to the inside of it so it would be discreet, passed the wire through the plunger hole and hooked it up to the horn contact button. done :) Pic below, many thanks for you help! how did you get on with changing your switched over?


Cheers,

Ray

p.s managed to reassemble the steering wheel by hand... applied decent pressure to the lock plate and got the C clip on, then as you mentioned, pushed the steering wheel onto the spline as far as possible then tighten then nut to get far enough onto the spline.


Attachments:
File comment:you should be able to see (hopefully not :) ) the solder n the inside of the contact. the wire then passes up through the hub via the plunger.
IMG_0461.JPG
IMG_0461.JPG [522.43KiB |Viewed 847 times ]

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