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 Post subject: Re: mods/upgrades...
PostPosted:Mon Jun 07, 2010 12:21 pm 
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Big Block
User avatar

Joined:Tue Mar 17, 2009 1:36 pm
Posts:91
Car Details:1995 Camaro z28 manual
Land Rover Discovery 2
Various motorbikes...

1996 Camaro Z28 manual -SOLD
1997 Camaro Z28 SS manual -SOLD
1996 ChevyVan - SOLD
Location:Surrey
Quote:
STRIPES

well I've decided on the style of stripes I like (35th anni, I know that a 2000 isn't one but they just look great) but am curious as to if anyone on here has used either:

Camaro Graphics
or
Phoenix Graphix

currently CG is more appealing as they simply have a better range of colours (or should that be colors? :lol: :lol: ) to use (and I have to say so far their customer service is great!)


LOWERING

seeing as the 4th gen looks like it's on stilts I'll be looking to lower mine next year.... question is since I'll not be going the 'cheap' way and cutting a coil or 2 which kit/supplier to use and why would you recomend them?


Wish-list

EBC dimpled and slotted brakes (not hugely impressed with the 'maro brakes)
Volant CAI
Corvette style fuel rail covers
True-dual exhaust (currently no rear silencer - there are points where this sounds just jaw-droppingly good, other just good but under merdium throttle it does get 'boomy/droney')


Other...

Given that I'll not be going racing in mine what mods would you do/have you done (and why)? Currently my list is:
Gun-metal grey alloys (curtesy previous owner, and I love them!)
The previously mentioned exhaust
Parrot Mki iPhone compatable handsfree/music streaming device (I reallly like the original Camaro unit :oops: )
I'll be ordering the McNord instrument face replacement/overlay in the next couple of weeks
can't help much.
My car is an SS which has 'Level II bilstein Sport suspension package' which ISTR drops it about 1 inch. Personally I find the suspension too hard - my first camaro was fine with the standard suspension - maybe I'm just soft.
I've had a sport stainless cat-back fitted - it has to be custom to avoid the tow bar.
Other than that I'm actually quite hepp to stay standard - other than the LT1 brakes that are pants.

Who/where are 'Camaro Graphics' google didn't get them.
I want to replace the 20th aniversary strips on my car are they are flaking.


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 Post subject: Re: mods/upgrades...
PostPosted:Tue Jun 08, 2010 2:48 pm 
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Big Block
User avatar

Joined:Sat Mar 27, 2010 11:25 pm
Posts:77
Car Details:2000 SS Camaro
try this address:

http://www.3rdgendecals.com/35th.htm

looks like they've changed names since I got mine - which are hopefully going to go on this weekend :clap: :clap: Still awaiting the instrument face to be done but I've just received the art-work and it looks fecking awesome (I'll post a pic up once I've got the items in my possession)....

any other ideas/projects however are going to have to wait due to me splitting up with my partner... all the spare cash is going to be needed since I suspect that I'll already be living on bread and water and that's before things start getting nasty :evil: :cry: :evil:


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 Post subject: Re: mods/upgrades...
PostPosted:Wed Jul 21, 2010 10:49 am 
Offline
Big Block

Joined:Tue Apr 20, 2010 11:16 am
Posts:58
Car Details:No chevy at the mo :-(
Hi Waylander,

was just wondering what springs you went for in the end?

It seems Eibach's seem to be popular but concerned with Maudy's findings of grounding out. :?

I checked through the Summi Tracing catalgoue but prefer not to be stung by import duty and/or *admin/handling* charges.

Also wondering if I can get some 17 x 10 AC schnizter wheels with offset of 10 or 15 to fit *with spacers probably*

Be interested to see how you have got on so far..

Cheers

D


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 Post subject: Re: mods/upgrades...
PostPosted:Wed Jul 21, 2010 2:45 pm 
Offline
Small Block

Joined:Mon Jul 12, 2010 1:09 pm
Posts:36
Car Details:1967 Camaro German Spec import.
This was an L30M20 car sent to Germany in August of 1967 for a Race team there. I am in the process of rebuilding it.
My Suggestion is Just Don’t Do It!
Just my two cents worth, I am running a full weight 67 Camaro with Global West suspension. I have four piston disk in the front and single piston disk in the rear. I run solid disks; due to the cracking I have experienced with Drilled and slotted disks after only one day at the track. My engine is a 535hp Aluminum Head small block, which places a lot of stress on my system. I have never had a problem with solid disks, and if you get good quality pads, they are already slotted to let the gas out. Pad life is greatly increased by the solid rotors also. I wanted to get you some information from others who are having the same issues, and also a link to a company that has the dimpled disks as an option. They sell all types, and have a good breakdown by your actual needs.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

I bet you don't see these pictures in the advertisements!!!

Popular Hotrodding said,
Brake Cooling
Drilled Vs. Slotted Rotors
Posted September 10 2008 08:36 PM by MilesSpeed
Filed under: Tech
There is much debate as to which is best: drilled, slotted, or drilled and slotted rotors.
Here is the debate. When choosing a street/track rotor, is drilled a good thing?

Many brake component manufactures admit that the drillings on the rotors may be more detrimental than helpful if over heated. The edges give heat a place to concentrate and eventually fracture. These cracks aren't huge, but enough to see like on an over-heated flywheel. Slots, on the other hand, are very helpful for dissipating heat, and don't cause the damage the holes do. Most cars on the street will not experience the braking to create the above damage, so they are perfectly fine for street cars.

Race cars though, since many rotors are replaced after each event, can afford the possible cracking due to the holes. The cooling effect is more important.

Drilled rotors may look cool, but if the diameter and thickness of the rotor isn't up to the heat, you may want to reconsider that choice.

http://blogs.popularhotrodding.com/6279 ... index.html


If you feel you want better than just standard Rotors, I would suggest, Diamond Slotted rotors.

http://www.raceshopper.com/sp_rotors.shtml

Diamond Slotted

Image

Recommended for street performance applications. Slotted rotors with a unique diamond etching pattern.
Slotting provides increased brake 'bite' and helps keep pads clean.
Diamond etching gives the effect of Cross-Drilled without any danger of cracking.

Note: Due to the nature of slotted rotors- a slight hum or whirring sound may be evident under heavy braking.

http://www.raceshopper.com/sp_rotors.shtml

From the Honda Boys on HondaSwap.com

Pads still do produce some vapors when they are heated up, a small layer of the pad is going to burn off and that will create vapors.

How-ever, high quality brake pads should have a slot in the surface to allow those vapors to escape. So gas/vapor is not a reason to use cross-drilled brakes.

Cross-drilled brakes, when done correctly WILL increase surface area. (NOT SWEPT AREA, which is different).

It’s simply finding the surface area of a cylinder and removing the top/bottom face.

Surface area = 2*pi*r*h - 2*pi*r^2

If the radius of the drill is equal to the thickness of the rotor, you gain no surface area. If the radius is smaller, you gain surface area. Finally, if the radius is larger you lose surface area.

Example 1:

2 * 3.14 * 8 * 8 – 2 * 3.14 * 8^2 = 401.92 – 401.92 = 0

Example 2:

2 * 3.14 * 6 * 8 – 2 * 3.14 * 6^2 = 301.44 – 225.08 = +76.36

Example 3:

2* 3.14 * 10 * 8 – 2 * 3.14 * 10^2 = 502.4 – 628 = -125.6

Surface area radiates heat, so more surface area does result in faster cooling. However, it is at a sacrifice of MASS, which is what determines your thermal storage.

Cross drilling does not just reduce weight.

However, you would be better off going to a larger rotor which has more surface area and mass. That way you don't have to worry about cracking. The stock Honda rotors don't have a ton of thermal storage to begin with, why drill some away?

Here is the last of some good information. I know the Drilled and slotted thing looks cool, but you may be working against yourself as far as safety and longevity are concerned.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/bra ... conclusion


Manufacturers of either type make grand claims for performance gains. That's how they sell this snake oil, and they sell a lot of it. The problem is these claims are quite unproven in real world testing. It is worth noting that few full-out racing cars use these types of rotors.

For all intents and purposes drilled or slotted (or both) rotors are appearance, not performance products. Brembo even has a warning on their cross-drilled rotors stating they are not designed for high-speed use!

If you want improved braking, look to higher performance pads and fluid. If you think drilled or slotted rotors make chicks hot for you, get them for that reason. But don't get them for a performance enhancement.

_________________
Real Camaros have vent windows!!


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 Post subject: Re: mods/upgrades...
PostPosted:Wed Jul 21, 2010 2:52 pm 
Offline
Small Block

Joined:Mon Jul 12, 2010 1:09 pm
Posts:36
Car Details:1967 Camaro German Spec import.
This was an L30M20 car sent to Germany in August of 1967 for a Race team there. I am in the process of rebuilding it.
If you want to stop Real fast, or not at all, Have a Rotor break on you while you are going down the road, or worse in a curve!
2010 Camaro Brake Failure, (So he said) He walked away!Image

_________________
Real Camaros have vent windows!!


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