The Camaro Club (UK)

Some good info there about the aftermarket upgrades!
You're welcome - not sure if you've bled a system before so hopefully not teaching you to suck eggs here lol. The documented way to do it is to start with the furthest away brake from the master cylinder, which is the rear passenger side. Open the bleeder on the caliper as someone slowly pushes down the brake pedal, making sure that no air gets sucked back in (when they say their foot is to the floor, close the bleed screw, get them to lift off and then start pressing down again, that's when you open the bleeder again). A few repeats should do the trick. It can help if you have some clear hose, approx 1/4" inner diameter (if i remember right) to slip over the bleeder and aim it into an empty bottle. This way you can watch air bubbles come out and gives you an idea of when to stop. Move to the drivers side rear, then passenger front, then finish with driver front. Then do the bleed of the master cylinder (same process but just this time opening the flare nut on the master cylinder instead of the caliper).

There is a way around the vacuum bit. Flakmonkey on here made a thread, or added it in the main project build, about using a powersteering related item. Memory is a bit hazy on this but the idea is that you can take out the big brake servo (if that's the right name for it) that sits behind the master cylinder and it's replaced by something that sits around the powersteering. It works by pulley / crank generated pressure, instead of relying on engine vacuum. Sorry for the awful description, i'll try and find out some proper info now!

Found it, here we go:

http://www.hydratechbraking.com/FAQ.html

DIY guide: http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums ... ll-417445/

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=chevy ... oS4Ud2LsCA

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There is the correct way to bleed brakes, then there's a better way
Start by making sure all the bleed nipples open. Nothing more depressing than getting ready to do the job and have a rusted nipple break off. Ideally remove each nipple and coat the threads with anti seize.
Take out as much fluid from the master cylinder as possible (turkey basters work well) Clean out as much crud from the bottom and then fill it to the top with new fluid.
Beginning with the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder. Get a piece of clear plastic pipe that will fit over the nipple and put the other end in a jam jar. Now have a friend ready to open the nipple.
Pump hell out of the brake pedal 5 or 6 times then hold it down as hard as you can. Get your friend to open the nipple. When the pedal is on the floor have your friend close the nipple. Repeat this until clear fluid starts coming out of the pipe, top up the master cylinder and then move onto the next wheel.
This will accomplish 2 things. It will stir up all the crud lurking in the bottom of the master cylinder and it will force out, at a good pressure, all the crud and all the air bubbles clinging to the inside of the brake lines.