The Camaro Club (UK)

you are getting in too deep with all those thoughts.
As I said before, The correct way if you think you may have those problems is to go with all the correct professional materials including adhesion promoters & 2k paints with flex agents etc.

It will cost you an absolute fortune though!!!!

Just go with what people have suggested (and your budget allows ) & you should be fine!

If you've already got sandpaper (sounds like you've got plenty ) then no worries on the scotchbrite ( i was thinking that if you didn't have any, then it's cheaper buying a pad vs. a pack of sandpaper that you'll probably never need again). If the surface is ready (repaired), then a fine sanding grit will be ok, just enough to give you a key, something like 600 -800. I found the tech sheet for Upol and it doesn't require sanding after application and requires topcoat within an hour, so it will go on quite thin:

http://www.u-pol.co.uk/documents/datash ... TDS-EN.pdf

Not sure of the differences between the 2 products, i have used a few of Upols products, including their weld through primers and have found them to be a good product. Their target market is the professional bodyshop and hobbyist and i think you pay a bit for the name. I personally always use their fillers (they are categorised as premium level - base coat safe etc.) and rattle can weld through primers. I know people that use their 2k products (clear coat etc) and it's decent, but it's not PPG, Glasurit. There's obviously a price difference there too.

If i had to make a spot repair and didn't have access to 2k, based on my experience and products i've used, i would go with the Upol primer, have a paint shop mix the correct colour in a small rattle can and then go with a Upol rattle can clear, with no hesitation. The Hycote could be the same quality, or better or worse, but i can't say as i've not personally used it.

Rattle cans have come a bit of a distance and certainly are better quality and have good hold out, so i wouldn't be too worried. As Maverick suggests, the only real way to get around this is to go down the 2k route. Even then, you still get problems, so as long as long as you do a good prep job and lay down the material well, you'll get a good result. In perspective, I have a car that had a respray (before my possession) and it was a full respray with 2k, same colour, just a freshen up. I put masking tape around some polythene sheet that i put over the car (as the weather strips are non existent) and when i pulled the masking tape up - it brought a lot of paint with it! So even with 2k you can get a bad job. What i'm getting at is don't worry - you're already doing the right bit and as long as you stay away from the bargain bin materials you will get a good result. It's possible now to get 2k in a can, both primer and colour. You basically click something on the can and it releases the 2 chemicals:

UK supplier (haven't looked around, there may be more suppliers but i knew to look here as these guys are Eastwood distributors) http://www.frost.co.uk/2k-aero-spray-hi ... 14148.html



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0mrD21NeSTE

Hope it helps!